1:384 Pass of Brander - Steel four-masted barque - 1890

[moomoon]

Inspiring!... well, not so much because I'll never be able to make it
I'd like to see how you assemble your ratlines... You are using copper wire (from electric cable?), how and with what are you gluing it?

[Shipbuilder]

I use tinned copper wire 38 swg. It is not glued, but soldered. I wind the ratlines on a frame obtaining correct spacing via threaded rod glued along the sides. The shrouds are also tinned copper wire a bit thicker, soldered on. Really not all that difficult. If you have the patience to put ships in bottles, you should be able to build ones like mine. But most modellers set themselves at a disadvantage by stating "I could never do that!"
Bob

[JIM BAUMANN]

Hi Bob

are the shrouds flush with the base of the winding frame-- ie that when you apply the soldering iron the foot-ropes do not deflect the shrouds--or are the shrouds set up so taut that no deflection occurs?

I am thinking of a similar set up for making ratlines for an upcoming transitional sail/steam ship,
however it will be in half the scale at 1/700-- so the material thickness will be half or less-- will it still work in copper

or should I use stainless steel or tungsten wire and use glue?

thoughts and advice appreciated!


Jim Baumann

[Shipbuilder]

Jim,
The ratlines are above the base of the frame by the thickness of the threaded rod glued round the edges! When I run the iron along, it is only done lightly, certainly not enough to push the wire down as far as the base. The wire is tinned copper and you can get it much finer than I use and it can be soldered easily enoigh. The biggest problem with finer wire is that when it is cut from the frame, it is much more delicate and the biggest problem is fitting it to the model. But as you are used to very delicate work, you may not have much trouble with it. Also, do not rely on the solder already on the wire, put a bit on the iron as well. If it runs over and fills up a gap between ratlines, no problem - just heat it up with the iron and poke the point of a cocktail stick in to free it again! When soldering, it is important to use liquid flux. I use Baker's Soldering Fluid, that has the consistency of water. Plumbers use it and it is available on Ebay.
The fine wire may be obtained from http://www.wires.co.uk
Bob

[Shipbuilder]

The jigger mast is now fully rigged and complete! The standing rigging on the fore and mainmasts is now complete. As soon as I complete the standing rigging on the mizzen mast, I will be ready to start fitting the 18 yards and their furled square sails. The yards have already been made and painted.
Bob

[Shipbuilder]

I have now fitted and rigged the three lower yards and the three lower topsail yards. But daylight only allowed me to photograph the model when the lower ones were completed. Tomorrow, I hope to fit and rig the upper topsail and lower t'gallant yards, with completion of the whole ship expected on Sunday.
Bob

[Shipbuilder]

Nearly finished now! I will complete rigging the three lower t'gallant yards later today and fit and rig the upper t'gallants and royals tomorrow morning. The display case is ready and waiting.
Bob

[Shipbuilder]

Completed Sunday, 25th November, 2012.
Bob

[moomoon]

She's beautiful
Thanks again for sharing you techniques, hope to see more soon
Sure makes me want to try one! - well..., when I finish the dozen scratch I have in progress

[Pieter]

Looks very nice ... and way beyond my skills as well as speed. I do hope we're going to see some classic '50s and '60s liners again.

[Neptune]

That sure went fast!!!

Excellent build (again). Don't want to see the liners though, cargo ships from the '50s and '60s are always welcome though!

[JIM BAUMANN]

I echo the comments of the chaps-- staggering productivity !!



Looking good and sharp-- fine looking vessel--and from your own drawings too!


Congratulations

Jim B

[Trustytone]

Hi Bob
Can you point me at any further articles/books written by Captain James S Learmont. Have re-read his great book Master in Sail and trying to get further writings by this great sailing ship captain. Best regards Tony

[Shipbuilder]

Sorry for late reply. I seldom seem to get e-mails when replies are posted. Only just seen it. As far as I know, James Learmont only wrote Master in Sail. But a few other sailing ship mates and masters wrote books, such as Log of Limejuicer (James P Barker), Cape Horn Breed and All Hands Aloft (W H S Jones), Kicking Canvas (Bestic), The Brassbounder (David Bone) and a number of others. Search for them on http://www.bookfinder.com
Bob

[gluefish@gmail.com]

The Pass of Brander was renamed to the SV Bengairn when it changed hands in 1890. My father was 15 when he signed onto the Bengairn at Tacoma as a cabin boy; if you search "Bengairn" you will find a picture of the crew on the deck, where my father was seated cross-legged in front of the rest of the crew. They sailed with a load of wheat from the Far East, down the west coast of the Americas, around the horn West to East, and back up to about 150 nm SSW of the Fastnet, where she was sunk by a U-Boat.
My father wrote his memories before he died in 1986, where he refuted some of the statements that James Learmont had written.

[Shipbuilder]

Thanks, I knew the Pass of Brander became Bengairn, and was sunk when almost home. I read the book Bye the Wind by Captain J Murray-Lindsay who was apprentice onboard at the time. I have also read Learmont's notes, and have a copy of his hull plan of Bengairn. I looked up the image of your father - good clear picture!
I was prompted to build it after reading the book, and recalling that I had the hull plan.
Bob