Gluing photoetch to bare plastic.

EJM · Post by **EJM** » Tue May 16, 2006 5:13 pm

How well will photoetch parts glue to bare plastic? What prefered type/brand of glue should I use?

Post by **Timmy C** » Tue May 16, 2006 6:31 pm

Superglue glues anything to pretty much anything else. Metal to plastic works just fine in my experience.

William Swan · Post by **William Swan** » Tue May 16, 2006 10:06 pm

you must use superglue but be advised that when gluing PE to bare plastic it really sets up FAST, REALLY FAST, so be careful with part placement!

Seasick · Post by **Seasick** » Tue May 16, 2006 10:47 pm

After much experience with "super-glue" [CA], I have switched to tack glueing with elmers glue (white glue) and then going back with super thin CA and glueing it in a few places so that it will hold permanently.

White glue holds it well enough in some cases thay you dont have to go back and touch it with CA.

The brutal truth about CA is that the substance that it sticks to the best is human skin.

Lesforan · Post by **Lesforan** » Wed May 17, 2006 3:38 am

Hello again,

I can second Seasick's reccomendation.

One more observation about CA gluing skin: When the stuff gets so old that it won't stick to anything else, the last thing that it will bond is skin.

Guest · Post by **Guest** » Wed May 17, 2006 5:03 am

You can also use thick CA glue and accelerator.

Foeth · Post by **Foeth** » Wed May 17, 2006 7:56 am

Of course CA sticks well to human skin, that's what it's designed to do! Anyway, I sometimes use a slow curing CA if I need some time for positioning.

les · Post by **les** » Wed May 17, 2006 8:52 am

Might try Ailene's Tacky Glue it's like thick sticky Elmers.

PeteNolan · Post by **PeteNolan** » Wed Jun 28, 2006 1:31 pm

I use the smallest drops of thin CA possible, applied with the head of a pin. I start at a convenient place, then just work along, spacing the drops at about 1/2 inch in 1:160 scale (N Scale). A little attention to getting the burrs off GMM railings helps a lot.

I used to apply CA from the bottle, and let it "drain" along the railings--that doesn't work all the time. Too much CA can significantly lengthen its drying time, unless it's on your fingers.

David Griffith · Post by **David Griffith** » Thu Jun 29, 2006 2:57 am

I'd suggest not using CA to glue railings. If you get temperature changes the differential expansion between plastic/resin and metal will cause the glue bond to break. You may have less of a problem with white glue, but I won't be sure till my latest model is subjected to winter temperatures in the back of the car!!

Regards,

David

Ron Smith · Post by **Ron Smith** » Thu Jun 29, 2006 11:55 pm

EJ Foeth wrote:Of course CA sticks well to human skin, that's what it's designed to do! Anyway, I sometimes use a slow curing CA if I need some time for positioning.

That's an urban myth, the original use for CA was to speed up the manufacture of gunsight reticles. The medical uses of CA came about a decade or so later.

les · Post by **les** » Fri Jun 30, 2006 10:46 am

Well, it works better on skin, than any other surface.

Post by **JIM BAUMANN** » Fri Jun 30, 2006 3:53 pm

David Griffith wrote:

.....>>>> winter temperatures in the back of the car!!
<<<
I guess that will be your stunning North Carolina coming to Telford in November... minus 6 degrees C last year overnight.. ...imagine m,y sleepless nigt with stretched sprue rigged ships....

Amazingly NOTHING broke.., anywhere!!

JIM B

The Ship Model Forum

Gluing photoetch to bare plastic.

Gluing photoetch to bare plastic.

PE to Plastic

My method

Gluing PE