Fixing a warped resin hull

[David J LaPell]

How do you fix a warped resin hull? I have one is 1/700 that is bowed down at the bow and the stern, and is causing the midsection to not sit flush.

[Simon_Hwood]

As I tend to mount all my models on bases these days, to straighten a warped hull I just place it in very hot (as hot as you can stand to put your hand in) water for a few of minutes, dry it off quickly, and depending on the size either glue (Contact or cyno) it or screw it to the base and place it in the fridge for abt 1/2 hr. I have never had a problem with one coming unstuck, or warping the base yet.

If you are not fixing the end result to base, you could try doing as above & clamping to a flat peice of wood. This has worked, although you may still end up with a banana boat at some poit in the future.

Hope this helps.

Si

[Vlad]

i second the abvoe, my Warspite hull was the same, with the middle bit sitting too high. I put it in some hot water a few mintues then it pretty much straightened under its own weight. I havent secured it to anything but its stayed straight ever since. screwing it downs i sporbably a good idea though.

[Frank O'Neill 2025]

David:
Although I agree mounting the model to a base is the best way to go I would STRONGLY advise against using wood-and here's why.
When the model is mounted to the wood base and glued down you're stuck (no pun intended) where you're at. Over time the wood will dry out and, ever so slightly, begin to warp. This will become disasterous for the photoetch railings and rigging on the ship. The wood will cause the model to warp and the photoetch will not-the rails will become wavy and, because the model is glued down, there's no fix.
This is the solution I've come up with (thanks to Jim Baumann for his input on this as well). One of the first steps in construction is to hollow out 3 or 4 wells in the underside of the ship. Into these wells I attach (with a generous amount of ca glue) one hex nut per well. I cut a piece of aluminum or stainless slightly smaller than the size of the base I want and drill corresponding holes in the metal plate. The model is then screwed to the plate from the bottom into the nuts that have been glued into the hull. This forces the hull to conform to the metal plate. Heating the hull in boiling water, heat lamps and other methods are not required. No matter how much the resin tries to warp/deform it CANNOT force the metal to change shape and remains dead-flat. When completed the metal plate, with model attached, is attached to a wood base (with holes drilled in the underside in case removal of the model is ever necessary). The metal plate is then hidden by the water surrounding the ship.
Hope this helps.

[JIM BAUMANN]

thanks for thekind words Frank!

But actually I make life a bit easier for myself-(because I am lazy)

I fasten the ship to a stainless plate-but use the palte as the entire seabase.

I also usually predrill holes into the hull and use a stainless steel pozidrive (phillips in the US) screws No 6 x 1/2 or 3/4

I usually aim at the centre line of the ship with one in bow and stern also

I have bolted 1/350 models down--I excavate some resin out of the Barbettes and then pulll the bolts up.--this avoids relying on CA glue in a tension joint

Just my� 0.02 worth...

Cheers

JIM B

[Simon_Hwood]

I agree with the Frank's post re using wood for bases. I have found MDF a good option, I have had no problem with warping, and it is cheap and easy to work.

I admit for most models glueing to the base is not the best idea, however I must admit for 1/700th submarines, corvettes and other small escort vessels it is the lazy way out.

For larger vessels I tend to use a brass stud (rod threaded on both ends) cut it in half, drill two holes in the base of the hull and set the plain ends into them. Drill corresponding holes in the base, and recess for the nuts, and bolt the model to the base.

I have found that works fine for up to 1/700th Battleships and carriers.

Sorry I caused any confusion with my earlier post

[Frank O'Neill 2025]

Simon-What's MDF?

[scratchshipnut]

particle board

[Dave Martin]

Medium Density Fibreboard - The dust created when cutting it is carcinogenic.

Horrid stuff - Won't have it in the house!

[RNfanDan]

particle board

No. Particle board and MDF are two separate products.