APA project

[Fliger747]

Hank:

It's the same resin that I made the 20 mm Orlikons that i sent you. I do like the detail that this resin brings out. With the detail is a more pronounced tendency to stair step. Can't have everything!

Got all four Mk37 directors installed on Missouri, they look pretty good! Sprinkling around a few 12" searchlights and deck binos, there are some above the bridge and also on the flag bridge. Also replacing many of the PE inclined ladders. The rails may be more in scale (almost invisible) but the 3D ones seem to have (OK it's an opinion) a feel that fits in better with the overall ship.

T

[Fliger747]

Anybody out there have a drawing for a USN 36" searchlight?

Tom

[Fliger747]

Some 1:192 and 1:144 blast hoods for 5" 38 mounts. This is one type and I am currently printing another, there seemed to be a number of patterns in use. Have to go back and peruse my BB63 photos to see which was in use in late commissioning (Gulf War). As far as I can tell the ship currently only has four hoods, Alaska used none.

Cheers" Tom

[Fliger747]

Forward superstructure 1:192 Alaska Scratchbuild. Changes going on include 3D printing of superstructure railings. One's for hangar deck are printing right now. Recent additions include searchlights and platforms on the sides of the fire control tower 01 level rails and the previously discussed MK 37 directors and MK4 radars. The radars have a couple of items to still add to be crafted from wire or sprue. Pyro boxes were added to the fwd reaches of the hangar deck. As to the Searchlights, left hollow, silver paint added and a lens made from a clear, thin, plastic lid of good clarity punched out with a hole punch.

Back to rigging on Randall soon, avoidance behavior...

To Phil: I think in 1:100 or whatever scale he is using printed rails are a good way to go, they look OK in 1:192 if by necessity overscale.

Cheers: Tom

[Fliger747]

More wanderings. A set of 1:144 blast hoods and mount captain's sights enough for a 4 gun Fletcher.

I also printed these in 1:192 and spotted them on the mounts on Alaska and Missouri.

[Fliger747]

Elsie, the VP in the 3D shipyard on shoring prior to launching.

Actually somewhat amazing I got this far. The program I use doesn't have hull design parameters, but it does have an obscure tool that will blend defined surfaces. No mirror tool however! So the idea was to print a port and starboard half and join, kit like. One of those light bulb moments I realized I can join the halves in the slicer by just sliding them together, so currently printing the first test boat. (Already printed a couple of test halves...

[Fliger747]

The first whole Elsie VP needed medium rather than fine supports and dropped off the platen. Last night, seemed to print OK with heftier supports. The boats aren't bilaterally symmetrical with interior arrangements which limits my ability to mirror on the slicing platform so some items such as wheel and boat controls are only on the port side. There are some additional details that can still be added.

Cheers: Tom

[Fliger747]

Minor to more disaster... The plastic bottom of the SLA vat developed a pinhole which caused a layer of resin to be bonded to the printers LCD screen. So dead in the water for a bit, maybe for a long while. The plastic vat bottom sheets are available, with some shipping time etc. If the LCD needs to be replaced, perhaps an issue as I haven't found this part in stock anywhere. On gentleman using a different printer scraped everything down with a new razor blade. I was able to do this, down to the glass and thoroughly clean t, however I believe a film was placed on top of the glass, which may making having gotten down to the glass and removing the film, a disabling action.

Harumph! Some days are better than others!

Cheers: Tom

[Iceman 29]

Hello Tom, films are consumables and it's quite easy to replace them, you have to have some on hand in advance, I've already had to replace them at least 5 times.

If you have any doubts about the printing it is imperative to filter the resin with a paint filter to remove the solidified resin debris.

I have done a tutorial here to replace the film, it is valid for all printers with a resin tray. I also indicates the type of aftermarket film that can be used.

? Tutorial? Replacing a 3D printer resin tray FEP film:

https://www.britmodeller.com/forums/ind ... -fep-film/

[Fliger747]

Thank you Pascal!

I am aware that the vat FTP plastic is a consumable, but here at the long end of a supply pipeline. May be a while before I get some. What I am more concerned about is if the LCD screen is irrevocably damaged by the adherence of the resin. I was able to remove all this down to the glass, but am concerned that the LCD screen may have had a special tinted film on top of it, which I removed. In the meantime I "fixed" the pinhole with Testors clear plastic and window cement. The main reason for doing this is to do a test print and see if the LCD screen is still useable. Possibly a major issue as I haven't found anyone with this part in stock.

Would there be any advantages in printing the LCVP's vertically? A fairly long printing time would ensue but might give a better print.

Cheers: Tom

[Iceman 29]

I print as much as possible vertically, it's longer of course, but the quality is better and the risk of failure less important.

What is important is to filter the resin often, as it is the debris from the previous print that pierces the film. You can also run the squeegee through the tray to see if it sticks.

[BB62vet]

Tom/Pascal -

Well, I too have entered the 3D printing fray - working w/Tom on DSM Design & Sonic Mini printing, etc. Pascal, I certainly appreciate the comments re. the filtering, etc. of resin as it is poured into the vat and unused resin poured back into the jug, etc. with a repeat cycle over and over. I realized that using the plastic squeegee was a good way to quickly find out if there were any resin remnants either floating or stuck to the bottom of the vat. So far, so good, but your filtering comments will be addressed. I've also order an additional Phrozen FPE sheet which is large enough for 2 replacements of the vat bottom should that need be.

While my current design level is 3 points below a stone , working with Tom I've been able to print small parts for my 1:144 scale DD project and may create a post in that build to show photos of these parts.

Your LCVP looks professional and like the real deal!!! Keep up the great work & online assistance! Heading out today to the shop to print a few more parts and hopefully, Tom's Mk. 37 Director!!!

Sorry, Tom - didn't mean to hijack your thread

Hank

[Fliger747]

Hank:

The whole reason for the forum is to spread and share info! So no worries, the old saying for politicks and movie stars is "no such thing as bad publicity if they spell your name right".

Cheers: Tom

[Fliger747]

My prototype LCVP. Lacking some interior details since this was a proof of concept print. Have since added more interior ribs, engine cover, deck details and hinged bow ramp viewing port. Just waiting for printer parts to realize the changes! The main issue here was seeing if two mirrored halves could be printed as one object!

Cheers: Tom

[Iceman 29]

@Tom; It's a success!

@Hank; For my part, I leave the resin in the tray, it avoids too much harsardy handling. I just protect it from the ambient light with a cardboard lid, it's perfect. You just have to mix it again with the squeegee before printing.

The French proverb says, "forging makes a blacksmith!"

"Knowledge shared is knowledge squared." Etc...

[BB62vet]

Tom,
ELSY GOODBAR!!!!

Pascal,
Yes, doing just that, at least during the day. I clean out and reset things for the next day around 8pm when I close up shop. It's a learning process no doubt about it!!!

Hank

[Fliger747]

I have my printer in the small office where I have my floor top computer, downstairs and mostly out of direct sunlight. Looks to be two weeks, (guess) before I get all my printer parts and back in business. Next Time I'll try printing it vertically!

[Fliger747]

Tracking says Printer pieces to be here tomorrow, (HA!) so not holding my breath. Could be worse, the ARL plans I ordered from an un named vendor a month ago are finally ready for shipping (he was out of paper). But today I did do some work on the Randall Pilot house, installed a vertical ladder, removed the two inclined ladders to the top deck, replaced three WT doors with printed versions and re designed a file for this item, as the previous one was destroyed when my operating system crashed a while back. I had one in stock, but not two, so portside access only at the moment.

Doing some further design work on the LCVP and other items.

Cheers: Tom

[Fliger747]

Minor stuff compared to the half dozen or so terabytes of photo stuff I am dealing with. I didn't loose any of that data. Some things are important, some aren't in the big scheme of things.

: )

[Fliger747]

The replacement LCD for the printer arrived from England before the film from the (Evil) Amazon via the PO. PO info said out for delivery, a 15 mi trip to the PO revealed (I knew this) that Out for delivery means it's somewhere in the PO, to yet be delivered to the PO box. Inquiry at the counter gets a non sympathetic response, after all it's the "Post Office". In comparison to Roccia Pochta it's still not bad, but the distance is narrowing.

On Randall replaced a couple of inclined ladders (my paper ones were actually pretty good) and went around on Missouri's superstructure carefully measuring and making templates to take back to the house to design some new 3D rails. Maybe it's my bad technique, but I don't seem to get PE to look good, or stay that way (smashed). Did add a couple of replacement PE inclined ladders on Mo from in stock items as well.

So maybe tomorrow back in commission with the printer. PE is finer than resin threads for rails, but the resin is round and pops back up after being brushed against. It also can be custom curved and designed for each application. PE could be, but not a practical process for most situations. It's done for popular kits, but not as useful for the rest of us. 3D rails are at the bottom of their real utility at the 1:200 level currently, technology evolves. In the larger scales, 120-100 etc they start to get much more effective.

It's a valid question as to whether 3D is a real scratch technique. Perhaps in the traditional meanings it is not. I pretty much finished my APA completely in traditional methods, am now going around changing some items. but still there are no commercial items other than wire, wood, plastic, thread and whatnot.

It's a big hobby, kit builders with varying degrees of research and addons, kit bashers with many custom parts, purist wooden builders, 3D guys and on and on. No value judgments!

Tom