SS Nomadic, Titanic's Little Sister - 1/200 - 3D (Assembly)

[wefalck]

The caisson and the lock would make a 'diorama' (not really, as a diorama stricktly speaking is an arrangement like a stage, with background etc.) of its own. The kind of instruction or demonstration model you would have found in the technical museums of old - the London Science Museum once was full of such models, canals, bridges and such - some of the working.

[JIM BAUMANN]

OK--that is very impressive--and clever--

rather than a " half-drydock "

you have made a 5/8 of it ( or so)

the wrap-around and the Caisson make it very special!


JIM B

[Iceman 29]

Thank you JIm!

@Wefalck. Yes it's more like a scene, a real diorama would be too big. What's more, I really improvised as I went along with the dry dock project.

The caisson is painted, part of the dock as well, but nothing is finished.

There is still the caisson to be weathered, then varnished matt, the walls to be varnished matt.

I only realised the walls outside the dock, because I want to pour the crystal resin first, if I see this operation messed up, I wouldn't have painted everything for nothing.

I have to finish the boat and its deck as well, which I have just redone, with PE for the railing. I would choose one of the two once the last one is finished.

The "stone wall" effect doesn't look good with my Iphone, it's much better in real life. I would stain once finished taking pictures with my camera. The last photo is made with a camera.

[Iceman 29]

I printed the deck of the caisson this afternoon. Laying the very fragile railing from TomModelWorks.

I also printed a small craft that I found on the net, it's not bad and this one is designed for printing. It will be moored next to the door as in the photo. Thanks to the contributor.

https://www.turbosquid.com/fr/3d-models ... at-1476522

[DrPR]

Pascal,

This is really nice!

Your model of the cassion and surrounding rock work are a model in themselves. So this brings to mind the question - is the drydock "scenery" for the ship model, or the other way around?

Phil

[Iceman 29]

Thank Phil! I say both!

The ageing of the door boat is finished, it is now varnished.

I have received the crystal bi-component resin. I still have the docks to continue, the fish to be printed with the crystal resin and two crystal resin supports for the boat to be printed as well.







The opposite side.



The principle of the caisson from Rochefort (France) to the hold of the Hermione :

This technique was developed by the intendant Pierre Arnoul in Rochefort in 1683. These boats are specially designed to close the refit forms and dry them out once the ship has entered them. Each gate boat is custom-designed according to the characteristics of the refit forms.

At Rochefort (17), the gate-boats will be used to dry the Napoleon III and Louis XV forms for the launching of the Hermione hull.

[Fliger747]

As always interesting background data! Dry-docks became important national security installations, especially for larger ships where they could determine the limits of ship draft and size. I think the greatest dry dock sill height at PSNS (Bremerton Wash) was 36 feet at high tide which imposed a draft limitation. To assist the ships would lighten up, dropping ammunition off at the Bangor Naval ammunition depot (Hood canal) and sometimes fuel at the Fuel Pier at the outboard end of Rich Passage. The development of the floating dry-docks for use at advance bases during the Pacific War was a major advance. The Kriegsmarine found out about not unloading ammunition in dry dock when a bomb blew the bow off of Gniessnau (sp?) .

Very illuminating project! Tom

[Iceman 29]

Around November 1941, Brest, France, near my home, the Scharnhorst on the left and the Gneisenau under the nets in Laninon drydocks.



Gneisenau, Brest.


This photo was taken after the liberation of Brest in September 1944; the wrecks of the sperrbrecher can be seen in the Laninon drydocks.
9 L�neburg and the 8 Neckar (speebrecher cargo ships fitted out by the Germans as blockade forces)

[Fliger747]

Pascal:

Thank you for sharing the interesting historical photos!

Regards Tom

[Iceman 29]

The mould walls for the crystal resin are ready.

Print the bollards, lamp-posts, fishes, with crystal resin. I am currently testing the casting resin and am waiting for another MIG product.






This element is almost finished, the quay capstans are still to be designed.

[Fliger747]

Pascal:

I like the degree of whimsey and humor in this project. I have used some of the cast gin resins before, for casting! Some of them seem not to generate excessive heat and I will trust you have found just the right one for the project. Looking forward to the results! Tom

[BB62vet]

Iceman29,

Excellent work and project "out of the box" thinking!!!

I'm imagining myself back in Victorian England....a couple local tradesmen are digging into the side of the embankment, causing Bobbies immediate concern. But, they stop! What is it that these scofflaws have unearthed???? It's The Ripper!!!

Hank

[DrPR]

Hank makes a good point. Resins can generate a lot of heat while curing, and when mixed in bulk some mixtures can generate enough heat to catch fire! The heat might be enough to melt plastic.

Be sure to read the cautions in the instructions for the resin you use!

I have seen some model railroad castings that were done in layers, allowing each layer to cool before the next is poured.

Another common problem with resins is bubbles. Bubbles can be trapped between layers. There are techniques for coating surfaces before pouring resins to prevent bubbles from forming between the surface and the resin.

We used resins for water-tight coatings for oceanographic instruments. For this we cast everything in a vacuum chamber.

Phil

[Iceman 29]

I see that I am not the only one with an overflowing imagination!

Thank you for the advice, yes I am aware of these problems, I am working on it.

I use a specific crystal resin to make jewellery, which doesn't heat up, the hardening is long, at least 96 hours through the heart to avoid it heating up, I've been able to check this. I have to do some release agent tests as well.

[setori]

BEAUTIFUL !!!!!

[Iceman 29]

Tk Setori!

I'm waiting for the release agent, Polyvinyl Alcohol, that's what I chose, it doesn't look bad, excellent site that explains well the use of the different products on sale. Maybe tomorrow.

I'll apply it to the airbrush I think.

https://ecomposites.fr/moulage/102-alco ... -50cl.html



I bought two MIG products as well to make the surface waves.

https://www.barondurail.com/recherche?c ... au+acrylic

https://youtu.be/XbiP2oaJU4s


I applied the base colour to the rest of the dock, painted the tins with their base colour as well. Now I just have to make it live with the ageing, keeping the style of the door block so that it is homogeneous.

This semi-diorama is 54 cm long for the moment.

I will have to draw a dock gangway from the ship to the quay. There is one on each side normally at the time of today's drydocking, this is for safety reasons so that the personnel on board can evacuate the ship in case of fire, even if one of the exits is not practicable.

[Iceman 29]

I progressed on the painting of the rest of the Drydock, I spent an afternoon for the application of the different colors.

I started to cut the teak surround that will be around the dry dock to finish the whole thing. It will eventually allow me to put a display case as well.

The melamine plate that will be used as a base will not be grey but wood color.

[wefalck]

Sorry, I am geologist by training, so I am wondering about the colour of the stones used for the masonry. Yellow or ochre seems to indicate limestone. However, the stones likely came from the same resource and, therefore, the grey stones seem a bit odd. I know, you are going to blend-in the stones and toning them down, but the grey ones still look rather grey.

Otherwise, the modelling is impeccable and I am looking forward to the next steps !

[Iceman 29]

Tk Wefalck, I would do better next time with slight color derivatives in the same shade. I'm learning as I go along.

I found a base that I like, thicker than usual, but it enhances the scene. The color is perfect. The background is not part of it of course, it's just for the pictures.

I continued the aging, it's not finished, it has to match the other block once I varnish this part, it tends to lighten a bit, so you have to take that into account.

I made the yard's gangway, I have two more colors to apply, then a little aging.

I inserted the medal from the "Cit� de la Mer de Cherbourg" that I found by chance on Ebay, it is out of stock on their site.

https://www.ebay.fr/itm/50-Cite-de-la-M ... 3922346857

https://www.citedelamer.com/information ... /boutique/



The medal represents the painting of M. Jacq:
https://www.citedelamer.com/espaces/tit ... cherbourg/



To the right of the medal will be inserted the name of the ship, I do not know in what form yet. And to the right of the name, a flag of the White Star Line also inlaid in teak.

[Iceman 29]

I finally poured the first resin layer yesterday.

I had some small leaks despite the good dose of silicon applied for the waterproofing at the level of the mold and the box, fortunately it was not important, I could seal.

I have a new thin colored layer of 1 to 2 mm to pour on the port side, then I will make small waves with the MIG product.

This resin is a good product, the mixture must be precise in quantity to avoid a long hardening. Adding color will extend this time a bit. I didn't have any problems with bubbles, you have to follow the instructions when mixing. It takes at least 36 hours to set. And double that time to remove from the mold, especially with thicker pieces.

https://translate.google.com/translate? ... B0027J1DB2