SS Hydrograaf, 1/100 3D, hydrographic ship, Royal Dutch Navy

[Iceman 29]

Yes Phil, tube of 0,3 mm.

The hand grabs along the sides of the cabin look nice. Are they open between the rail and the deck house side?

Rectification of the print support problem:















I continued to print a few pieces:

[DrPR]

Thanks for the information. You are creating a beautiful model!

The Okie Boat had a lot of railings made of 1 1/4" stanchions, 1" top rails and 3/4" middle and bottom rails. These are inside diameters so add 1/4 inch for the actual outside diameters (1 1/2", 1 1/4" and 1"). That will be 0.0156", 0.013" and 0.0104" ( 0.396 mm, 0.33 mm and 0.264 mm) at 1:96 scale. 0.3 mm would be acceptable for the smallest tubing.

I have a good stock of brass wire in all these diameters, and have been trying to figure out how to create a few hundred 0.0156" diameter stanchions with 0.013" and 0.0104" diameter holes spaced correctly and centered on the stanchion wire! Plus other tiny details like 2" diameter x 0.25" thick caps on the tops and bottoms of the stanchions, hooks for chain lifelines, eyes for lifeline clamps, etc. I have done a lot of work with milling machines and lathes, but nothing at this tiny scale. The play in ordinary mills would cause serious repeatability problems, with lots of rejects.

There were 12 different types of water-tight and air tight-doors with 4 to 12 dogs, not to mention three types of quick acting doors. Again the details will be miniscule! But it can be done - see Wefalck's, Kieth Aug's and Valeriy Vilyald's amazing work:

viewtopic.php?f=13&t=158123&start=180

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19848- ... ent=605204

https://modelshipworld.com/topic/19333- ... 90551_menu

However, I already have the 3D designs, so it looks like 3D printing could take years off the creation of the model! It has already taken 14 years just to create the 3D CAD model!

[Fliger747]

Phil:

I believe you will find that small details of W/T doors will print very well. 3D is an evolving technology so by the time you get "Roundtuit" it should be even further capable. Pascal's projects are quite informative for those of us who are beginners in this technique. There is some pre planning in design and construction, as exemplified in the aft end of the deckhouse. The bottom portions where the supports are concentrated do not print with smooth surface and good detail so require as in this instance a separate part to be replaced here. In his ships boat the supports were arranged at the stern, which as a small surface could be sanded flat. For the large quantity of LCVP's I required for the APA the bottom of the hull would come out irregular, but could be sanded to smooth contour.

You will be pleased with the incorporation of ladders, hand grabs and small surface details for MK 37 directors etc. Separate hand grabs are easily created by the hundreds, if somewhat tedious to apply. There IS (Clintonian emphasis) a learning curve, it still has the aspects of the witch's art and not yet a push button technology.

Many thanks to Pascal for sharing his design and technique!

Tom

[Iceman 29]

Maarten of the forum had pointed out to me at the end of September that the current yellow colour of this ship was not the original tone used in 1910 by the Dutch navy, and moreover still partly used today.

Hi Pascal,

Maybe a bit late, but I would like to share a thought on the colour yellow you have used on the inside of the bulwarks. As the ship looks today, your paint choice matches perfectly.

However, I'm inclined to think that in the past the yellow colour used on (Dutch) navy ships was not the golden rich yellow you have used, but a more white-ish yellow, also seen on utilitarian vessels like tugs and fishermen of the period.

To illustrate the point, included here two photos of Hr.Ms. Luymes A902 and Snellius A907, two of the last hydrographic vessels in the traditional colours. The yellow used on this is I believe a good example.





Also this painting of Hydrograaf seems to point into that direction, even exaggerated, but that's of course subject to the interpretation of the artist:



This picture of the even newer Buyskes, Blommendal and Tydeman illustrate the point even more:



Humbrol 74 would have been a good choice, but you may be of course of different view.

Another point are the propeller shafts: as unpainted steel wil be very susceptible to corrosion, I think these are very rarely if ever left unpainted. Usually these have the same colour as the antifouling used on the ship's bottom.

But on shipyard presentation models it's a different matter, these were often adorned with much bling-bling that never was there on the real ship. If you want to capture that look your choice is very justified of course.

So I was up against the wall a few days ago because I had a choice to make involving the modification of the paintwork of the bulwark and of some accessories already painted. It's always a dilemma when this happens. I had to repaint with all that implies in terms of stress, cutting the cover etc.

It went pretty well, I have some touching up to do, I had to take off a good part of the deck accessories, which I didn't glue back for other reasons.

Then I started working on the castle and the bridge. For the gangway I had to separate the roof from the walls, there were too many deformations on the printing on the port posts, not very visible, but I could see it.

The chimney is finished. Nothing is glued, almost.

Same for the aft shelter, I separated the canvas from the frame.

Some pictures of the progress of the boatyard:

[wefalck]

Looks a lot better than the canary-yellow you had before

What buff did you you use ?

I am still undecided what to use on my current project, as I could not find any historically conclusive evidence for the kind of yellow/buff that what used at the time.

[Fliger747]

Ah yes, colors, a favorite arguing point for aircraft modelers and museum folks. We have voluminous photo evidence for historical ships being entirely in shades of gray? One of the most accurate aircraft restorations was the only remaining Royal NZ Navy F4U Corsair. As it turned out it had been repainted a number of times and the paint was worried down through the layers to reveal each layer, including markings. Apparently the paint had never been stripped. The least accurate guides are early color photos, especially from the 40's and museum ships, including models. I have done some photo restorations using known color items such as white hats, dungaree shirts and pants, clouds and whatnot. This improves things a bit but is not "accurate". Certainly warbirds painted in glossy Imron are not good guides to much of anything.

The model artist is faced with using best judgement. Re painting (I have done this) is a serious step, the scale deck crew with their micro brushes would have an easier time than we with our huge hands and air brushes, or even spotting tips.

Nice work as always! Regards: Tom

[Iceman 29]

Thanks Welfack, Tom

This is a yellow I made, it is close to the White Star buff of 1912:

http://www.titanic-cad-plans.com/whitestarbuff.pdf

viewtopic.php?f=13&t=314969&start=20

Looks a lot better than the canary-yellow you had before

What buff did you you use ?

I am still undecided what to use on my current project, as I could not find any historically conclusive evidence for the kind of yellow/buff that what used at the time.

[wefalck]

Ahh, you mixed it up yourself. I prefer to use ready-made paints, as in general I only need minute quantities.

[Iceman 29]

yes, but I never found this color at the manufacturers.

Supposedly Sand Yellow Valejo 69.033 ( to the left) was a match, but it's not a match at all.

[Fliger747]

Pascal!

Yea for making your own colors! My reason for doing so has more to do with being at the end of a very long supply chain. Both for making fairly large models and needing small bit of this and that. If you have a supply of base colors and some tinting materials you can mix up enough for a few bulkheads and a stack quite easily. Navy type greys are fairly easy! Black, white, appropriate blue to purple etc. Pastel's a bit more of a challenge. I once needed a little Honda red for my mom's 1:1 Prelude and went down to the paint store to get some mixed to spec. Guy says, you would be amazed, there's no red in this! Not having a wealth of experience with greens, I bypassed doing Poseidon in cammo greens, even though I did have a drawing of her scheme. Actual photos of her in the greens don't resemble the drawings as much as I would like. Not sure when she was repainted into grays.

To some extent the joy is in the creation and not in the completion. Mid construction change orders aren't disasters.

Best regards: Tom

[Iceman 29]

Some progress, printing of many parts, painting and mounting.

I created curtains to improve the look of the interior. Installing the windows, there are a lot of them. But thanks to the RpToolZ cutter, it's quite easy, a good and indispensable tool. �

[maxim]

It is really amazing to see how you now transform the already impressive 3D design into a very detailed, even more impressive model!

I wonder if any of that could be scaled into a much smaller scale, e.g. 1/700?

[Iceman 29]

Tks Maxim!

It is necessary to imagine that this ship at 1/700 would be 57 mm long.

It would have to be completely redesigned to get something usable in 3D printing at this scale.

I choose my scales of realization to serve the ship design, the details which compose it and in second that it does not take too much place on a shelf.

[maxim]

57 mm would not need much space on a shelf

Thank you for your answer regarding the re-scaling. With that level of detail, I had also the impression that a re-scaling would require a lot of work - even without most details and keeping only the hull and basis superstructure.

[Iceman 29]

In the last few days I have continued the painting work, the rigging, the railing, gluing the last parts, there are still some to be done, like the canoe.

But we are nearing the end of this stage.

The ship support will remain to be made.

[wefalck]

Begins to look like the real thing

[Fliger747]

Printed Awning supports and ratlines look very good!

Regards: Tom

[Iceman 29]

Thanks Welfack, Tom.

I have the correct method now for removing the rest of the printing supports on the railing.

A small grinding wheel, and a speed of 35000 rpm for my Dremel, it's radical, it takes a little skill to not pulverize anything in a thousand pieces like a puzzle but it works very well.

[Fliger747]

Pascal:

Yes I have used a similar method for dealing with correction of problems with the prints. Thank you for reinforcing this method, your railings look very good. I have tried to emulate the method my dentist uses by very gentle grazing brushes against the surface.

Best regards! Tom

[Iceman 29]

Printing bridge fins pillars and of an engine pass which above the steam engines, a thing that we do not see much, but the port door of the engine is open, so.

I found the crew in free mode on the different 3D websites.