The Ship Model Forum

Thanks Dave - I look forward to watch your progress on your vessel!

Hi,

an update of this weekend�s work...

Hi,

first dry fitting of the covers of the sea boxes for the sea valves (has anyone the correct english technical terms available, please?!) representing the closed setting. Both small and large ones.

Bye for now,

Bernd.

hi Bernd
this exceptional work on hull is admirable
good effort and good quality ship modelling....
superb

Hi Norbert!

Thanks - when will you start your hull, please?

Bye for now!

Hi Bernd
i was pretending start next month but
i have one or two theets with a periodontal trouble. maibe i need make a small cirurgy
but before i am doing a treatment to try solve it and is very expensive.
i finally found a good quality wood to make my planking work.
but now i need wait a few more...
parallel it i am building the superestructure cause i have much polistyrene(is a cheap material here).
i have new pictures of some parts i am doing and another things..
soon i post it.
i wait my hull stay good as you doing. fantastic work Bernd

Good luck at the dentist - had to see one 2 weeks ago...

Good night from Europe,

Bernd.

Thank you Bernd...
good night(here is nearing to the night too) from Brasil

...

Hi ingura,

thanks for the english terms - couldn�t find Seekasten ... Which dictionary did you use, please?

Ich hoffe, dass ich �berhaupt damit fertig werde... schlie�lich will ich noch die Gneisenau mal bauen ...

Freund von mir hat die von der Tann im Auge von MZM - taugt die was?

Gr�sse,

Bernd.

Added a picture of an insert for the sea valve chest.

Bye!

...

Thanks again ingura! Good things last for a life time and are thus worth their money ...

MZM: ok, er will den bausatz als basis nehmen und einiges selbst bauen. Soll ein RC-Modell werden das nach 2 oder 3 Jahren dann auch schwimmen soll.

Bye!

In US Navy ships hull openings below the waterline are referred to as "sea chests." I have no idea how that term originated, or how far back it has been in use.

I am not familiar with WWII German ship construction so I find the level of detail you are working on to be very interesting. US Navy seachest openings did not have valves flush with the hull plating. Intakes had some form of screen or grill to keep fish and sea animals out. Larger discharge seachests also had grills or screens, but smaller discharges were just open to the sea. The grills or screens were "portable" and could be removed to allow access by divers or when in drydock.

The actual valves to control water flow were inside the hull, often inside the inner bottom (double bottom). Seachests near the engineering spaces were fitted with steam fittings to allow the pipes to be cleared of debris and marine growth.

Phil

Hi Phil,

thanks for that info on US ship building details. Basically, German sea valves worked similar to what you describe:

Following info from text source: What you see on my Bismarck are the closed covers for the sea chests - in German called Wasserf�nger, literally water catcher, those were to be opened by a threaded push rod against the ship�s direction of travelling (I guess only forward) while traveling up to 12-15 kn. So, they impound water for the sea valves in the chest. Beneath them there must have been a grill and at the bottom of the chest was the acutal opening for the valve.

I have a drawing but only one view (seen from the stern). Not enough for a complete reconstruction of the open setting of this kind of sea chests.

How is your project coming along?

Bye now,

Bernd.

PS: Hope the link will work: in the right you�ll see 2 closed sea chests:

http://3.bp.blogspot.com/_CbwnjooteyI/S ... 0-h/66.jpg

Hi,

need to see something different from sea valves et al.

The Taylor bow needs some attention: to protect it from being hit by the falling anchor the shell plates B22, F17 and G19 were of a greater thickness (26 mm) than the surrounding "normal" plates. These 26mm-plates received a beveled edge against the thinner plating.

Bernd,

I appreciate your attention to detail. I am watching with interest to see how you implement the hull plating. That is next up on my Oklahoma City.

Phil

Hi Bernd
wonderfull details on hull.
i like the method you using to do it.
great skilling
p.s. do you do your hull from fiberglass?? or wood? in some pictures appear what i think fiberglass

Final progress of today

DrPR wrote:Bernd,

I appreciate your attention to detail. I am watching with interest to see how you implement the hull plating. That is next up on my Oklahoma City.

Phil

Hi Phil,

most of the plating had little differences in thickness. So, I guess I will do those plates with a "large" difference in thickness to their adjacent plates by masking them off and applying one or two coats of primer before final airbrushing. Minimum plate thickness is 12 mm, max. 22 mm. The rules goes that a plate run of thick plates will be accompanied by plates of intermediate thickness and those finally by thin plates, e.g. 22 mm -> 16 mm -> 12 mm and not 22 mm -> 12 mm.

What�s the plate thicknesses used on OC; please?

Bye