Calling all Essex-class (Cold War configuration) fans

[ArmchairAdmiral]

Aloha Admiral - a very different and unique diorama!

Just so you are aware, we have a picture post section

Thanks. Oops.



Would someone be kind enough to move my post there?

[MartinJQuinn]

Done: viewtopic.php?f=60&t=164703

No worries, bud. It happens a lot.

[Mark McKinnis]

What would one expect to pay for a Jim Shirley Oriskany, or a Ships & Co. Ticonderoga? Where could they be found outside of ebay? Many thanks.

I paid around $220 5 or 6 years ago for the Jim Shirley Oriskany on Ebay. I bought the Ships & Co. Intrepid for about the same money and around the same time from their website. The Jim Shirley kit is slightly under scaled I think but a really nice kit. The ships and Co kit is the worst kit I have ever purchased. Over scaled and I had to scratch build the sponson and replace the deck with a nylon deck from Nautilus. No Aircraft or PE for that price. A good plan poorly executed. It is still waiting for a 3D Printed 1/700 Island from Model Monkey to make it into the Hancock. I have not found Ships & Co website lately and the Jim Shirley kits are "Holy Grail" Essex Class Kits.


I had hoped that Trumpeter would do a plastic 1/700 kit of Intrepid which could be converted with help of the 3D Print folks and a Nautilus Replacement Deck. I have been in communication with Nautilus and I have not been able to get a few decks made for a 1/700 SCB-125 (Angled Deck) Bonny Dick and Essex.


If Nautilus does those decks, I was planning on converting a DML Princeton into an SCB-125 ship. I like Princeton for the correct gun directors, S-2 Trackers for an ASW Essex, and the later mast can be used as a starting point for the SCB-125 ships. I figured if I had the decks, I could build the underside of the overhangs and the hurricane bow fairly easily. The increased beam can be done by flaring in some styrene sheets along the hulls sides. About 1/16 of an inch per side would be pretty close.


Until then, the 1/700 angled deck Essex Class eludes us.

[jpeeler]

If Nautilus does those decks, I was planning on converting a DML Princeton into an SCB-125 ship. I like Princeton for the correct gun directors, S-2 Trackers for an ASW Essex, and the later mast can be used as a starting point for the SCB-125 ships. I figured if I had the decks, I could build the underside of the overhangs and the hurricane bow fairly easily. The increased beam can be done by flaring in some styrene sheets along the hulls sides. About 1/16 of an inch per side would be pretty close.
Until then, the 1/700 angled deck Essex Class eludes us.

A long, long, long time ago I got the "data card" Booklet of General Plans for CVS-9 and used scaled copies from it, along with a lot of other information I'd gathered over the years, to convert a long-hull Hasegawa kit into CVS-12 in 1969. (This was the mid-'90s, so the Hasegawa kit was all we really had, and the CVS-9 set was all I could get hold of.) Between the information that was available at the time and my modeling skills at the time, it actually turned out pretty well.

Converting an original-configuration ship into an SCB-125 unit isn't really that hard to do if you're able to get drawings for the ship you want (or one that's close enough), have a good supply of styrene sheet and epoxy putty, and don't mind a little scratchbuilding and sculpting where needed. Model Monkey's series of islands takes a lot of the angst out of the process, and there's plenty of photoetch out there not only for railings and nets, but also most of the radar arrays for just about any time period you need. I keep hoping for a kit that does the work for us, but in the meantime, it's easier to do this than you may think.

Jodie Peeler

[ArmchairAdmiral]

Until then, the 1/700 angled deck Essex Class eludes us.

One would think that instead of producing the same WWII Essex ships over and over, at least one company would plow some new ground and do an SCB-27 or 125.

[Tracy White]

One would think that instead of producing the same WWII Essex ships over and over, at least one company would plow some new ground and do an SCB-27 or 125.

Once the basic CAD and mold work is done it's pretty damned cheap to keep re-popping it. I'm not saying they SHOULDN'T do more angle decks, just that they're hardly stupid for releasing similar ships.

[ArmchairAdmiral]

Once the basic CAD and mold work is done it's pretty damned cheap to keep re-popping it. I'm not saying they SHOULDN'T do more angle decks, just that they're hardly stupid for releasing similar ships.

Oh, yes, it's all about the $$$. Just seems that the law of diminishing returns would kick in sometime before we end up with three Essexes, three Hancocks, three Ticonderogas, etc.

[ArmchairAdmiral]

Was looking at this striking photo of Ticonderoga and wondered what's the antenna that looks like a giant pitchfork right by the starboard elevator?

[ArmchairAdmiral]

What does it do?

[Van halen 217]

Does anyone know how I can effectively mold a scratch hurricane bow on my ww2 uss Hancock im trying to modernize it, and I'm having trouble with the styrene sheets.

[Van halen 217]

I was initially trying to use one thin piece I measured and cut and bend it into place, should I just cut it into alot of mini pieces ?

[Van halen 217]

Well after reading cliffy b's what if CVHA-32 Leyte , I was essentially trying to turn the ship into an amphibious assault ship similar to what he proposed , with no angled deck, but with upgrades like a hurricane bow the scb-125 Essex's received.

[Van halen 217]

7.6x11x.040, really thin sheets, I also got slightly thicker sheets stockpiled.

[Van halen 217]

https://i.imgur.com/FsDOb4l.jpg

[Van halen 217]

Oh and sorry the model is the ww2 1/350 uss hancock.

[Van halen 217]

Sorry for late reply and I'm going for the hurricane bow she actually got in her upgrades.

[Timmy C]

Was looking at this striking photo of Ticonderoga and wondered what's the antenna that looks like a giant pitchfork right by the starboard elevator?

A bit of info here: http://www.virhistory.com/navy/ant-ship.htm

[Admhawk]

7.6x11x.040, really thin sheets, I also got slightly thicker sheets stockpiled.

You would have better luck with the curves using 0.020" thick styrene. Or even 0.010" for tight areas.

The thicker 0.040" can be used for flat areas.

Use a couple of frames cut to the curve shape to ensure pieces go and stay where they belong.

Pre-curve the plastic a little, then use the solvent a little bit at a time when you attach to the frame. Eg, apply and hold for a minute or so at one end, then move a short distance and apply a little more solvent and hold, then move again, until you get to the end. Then secure with tape and let cure over night. You can go back and fill cracks/joints later with small bits of styrene then sand smooth.

[Admhawk]

Maybe for the very front section, but I think when it comes to closing in the sides and fairing it in, some sheet would work better.

Some people avoid carving, they either don't think they can do it, or have trouble judging the curves.

[Guest]

What does it do?

its called the Pickel Fork installed in the TICONDEROGA and INTREPID.

DIOPOLE SWING OUT VERTICAL TO HORIZANTAL

very hard me to type due to my stroke and I can't get into lengthy explanations anymore .

email me off board at stillmo@shaw.ca
I have given uo truing to post pictures on this site ,,,,, have more pcs of tis antennae