Really dumb question

[robertmelvin]

I've been back in the hobby for about 5 years now. My practice so far has always been to, the the greatest extent possible, paint all parts while still on the sprue, using an airbrush. For instance, if I'm doing something that has both vertical and horizontal surfaces, I'll paint the entire piece the color of the vertical, then go back, mask the vertical and airbrush the horizontal color. Lets say for example, haze gray on the vertical, deck blue on the horizontal. I then proceed to assemble. Works ok for me, but can be tedious.
I'm constantly amazed here when I see somebody doing a build and apparently applying no paint at all, even attaching the railings before painting. I've frankly never understood how to pull this off. It would seem to require massive amounts of masking and in some instances, finding some way to paint a section with very restricted access. it would also seem to me that this would be very tough to do with the railings in place.
Ok, so what am I missing? What is the technique that obviously smarter and more talented modelers that I obviously am use to allow this feat? This assumes the model is not all being painted the same color. But, for instance, haze gray vertical surfaces and deck blue horizontal surfaces.
Any advice and instruction here would be greatly appreciated.

Bob Melvin

[sargentx]

I think it's a personal choice. I myself have never understood the practice of adding raw PE to raw plastic all before painting. Painting, masking, weathering, and extended handling are greatly complicated by having all that delicate PE attached. I also believe that the more PE you do before painting, the rougher it will look in the end because it is impossible to remove all excess glue before painting. I avoid painting glue as much as possible. I build my sub-assemblies without PE for the most part first, paint, then do most of the pre-painted PE to the painted and weathered sub-assemblies with white glue which dries clear and invisible. I finally attach the sub-assmeblies to the hull and finish with the perimeter rails and jackstaffs etc. last.

I personally wouldn't paint the pieces on the sprue. It just seems somewhat counter-intuitive to have to remove paint from contact points, assemble, fill, and then re-paint the parts.

Chris F

[robertmelvin]

Chris,
Thanks for your input. I just marvel at the guys who are able to do this and pull it off. I just can't imagine trying to deal with all that PE, especially railings, with all the masking, etc., this would seem to require. Maybe some of the magicians who manage this feat will chime in and let us know their secrets.

I take your point about painting on the sprue being counter-intuitive, as I think about it. I'm sure I started the habit based on a suggestion I read somewhere, maybe from one of our own breatheren here. One thing I did find was that it was somewhat helpful in keeping up with some of the microscopic pieces that Dragon includes. And, in all honesty, it is not something I do every time. I tend to take that approach when there is a multitude of very small parts (Dragon again) that have the carpet monster salivating. On other kits where there are fewer very small parts, I'm much less inclined to do it.

Again, thanks for your input. You just can't beat the modeling community for a spirit of pitching in and helping each other out!

Bob

[ComfortablyNumb]

Robert!! I don't have anything to add except its great to see you around again!
Did you take a hiatus for awhile?

[a380]

actually I have a question in the same vein. currently I am frustrated by not being able to create a clean straight line between two colors. in the picture below I need to have a clean separation between the black cockpit 'padding' and the red fuselage. I have tried hand painting (not steady enough ), masking with Tamiya tape (the curve prevented a good seal, thus paint seeped in ), Vallejo liquid mask (again, wobbly line ). off course every time I try and remove unsatisfactory work the airbrushed red get more damaged and harder to fix. liquid mask seems to be the best option therefore i suppose i should just keep trying till i am happy with the separation. how do you guys deal with painting parts that are molded as one piece but require different colors? this is one of the issues with building from a kit i have failed to overcome so far

sorry for the rant

thanks

amit

[robertmelvin]

Robert!! I don't have anything to add except its great to see you around again!
Did you take a hiatus for awhile?

Thanks very much for the warm welcome back! I'm pleasantly surprised to be remembered, and apparently fondly. Yes, I took about an 18 month hiatus thanks to a terrible bout of clinical depression. But, I'm fully recovered and looking forward to getting back to my bench and to participating in the fun here again!
Bob

[gott_cha]

actually I have a question in the same vein. currently I am frustrated by not being able to create a clean straight line between two colors. in the picture below I need to have a clean separation between the black cockpit 'padding' and the red fuselage. I have tried hand painting (not steady enough ), masking with Tamiya tape (the curve prevented a good seal, thus paint seeped in ), Vallejo liquid mask (again, wobbly line ). off course every time I try and remove unsatisfactory work the airbrushed red get more damaged and harder to fix. liquid mask seems to be the best option therefore i suppose i should just keep trying till i am happy with the separation. how do you guys deal with painting parts that are molded as one piece but require different colors? this is one of the issues with building from a kit i have failed to overcome so far

sorry for the rant

porco rosso savoia s21.jpg

thanks

amit

a380,.try this.....
Scribe a line around the padding, between it an the fuselage. Take your time and make several clean and neat passes. Now tape round the area and burnish the tape down into the scribed line to achieve a uniform separation all the way around. Next trim of the area you want to paint with a new sharp blade and removed that portion of the tape. You will have a good sharp edge that will airbrush just fine. This will also work just as well with liquid mask.
Good luck with the build.

[gott_cha]

Welcome back Robert

[sargentx]

Several light coats that are allowed to set up in-between is always the safe way to go to prevent leakage under the mask.

[a380]

thank you got_cha and sargentx for your advice.

I will definitely try the scribed line technique

[robertmelvin]

Welcome back Robert

Thanks. Its good to be back and good to be back at my bench!

Bob Melvin

[robertmelvin]

Welcome back Robert

Thanks. Its good to be back and good to be back at my bench!

Bob Melvin