Getting angry at my glue!!!!

[Uboat-PTboat]

I have the basic Testors model glue and it seems to be 1/2 glue and 1/2 mozzarella cheese! Everytime I place a small amount of glue on the model and pull the glue away, there is this super long string of glue that refuses to release. After the model is done, I have to go around it with tweezers and pick the dried "cobwebs" off of it! At first I thought I was using too much glue, but even on the tiniest amount it would happen. Is my tube of glue screwed up?!

[Timmy C]

Naw, all their tube glues are like that. I tend to take advantage of their viscosity and long drying time to glue large pieces (such as deck-hull, hull-hull, etc.) together, and use something thinner for small parts.

[Sean Hert]

The Testor's tube glue has a styrene filler added to it- that's the stringy bit. It helps fill big gaps in models- either really old ones, or the types of builds younger modelers tend to have. If you want to use the tube, and avoid the strings/webs- after you are done applying the glue, give the tube a twist as you pull away- life pouring a glass of wine.

Or, switch to- Model Master Liquid Cement for Plastic Models-I love the stuff. The metal tube/needle applicator allows a good bit of precision, and it doesn't have the fillers- so no strings!

[wildspear]

Try this glue......it's called "Gator Glue" and it's really great. Has a great tack to it, cleans up with water and it will glue just about anything together. Here's the web site........

http://www.gatorsmask.com

[les]

Tamiya liquid glue is also good. I also use Ambroid liquid glue.

[J. Soca]

I use Model Master's white glue like the one Sean is showing here and KRAZY glue gel style. I've been using this 1 for a while now, must act quickly before it dries, however you get used to it.

[Karsten]

My all time favorite was Revell's back when you could get it...Some times you needed and Adult along just to buy a single tube years ago....That was good glue.

Testors, well it works, fills gaps and voids on larger parts that require clamping but keep a supply of fine to meduim Emory Boards around...Buy the cheap ones at Target in the Makeup section.

For small parts I have 3 different Super Glue's, Regular, Gel and Goof Proof made by Loctite.

After reading the reviews of Gator Glue and my fear of PE I ordered 3 bottles that should last the rest of my life if I ever get around to half of what I have to build.

Karsten

[tony t]

I've used the Testor's (blue/ white tube) glue with no problems for many years, but I did try their red tube glue once and found it extremely thick and gave up on it. If you're having this problem with the blue tube one, maybe you just happened to get one that had gone bad for one reason or another.

[Avery Boyer]

I've had the same experience as Tony. I use the non-toxic Testors tube glue and have hod no problems in four years of use. I love it for scratchbuilding, much easier to work with and doesn't drip. Also, it's spill proof!

[Uboat-PTboat]

It is the red tube...I have never seen the blue tube come to think of it!

[tony t]

This is the one .. I think most stores that carry plastic kits should have this too.

[redalb2253]

I use Tenax 7 it's a plastic welder and it's real strong and has a quick drying time.

[RandyW]

I also use the Testors non toxic glue without any problems.

[intruder500]

Tenax 7R.... The absolute best glue for plastics on the planet! Takes a little getting use to... But after the very short learning curve? WOW! Tenax is more a bonding agent than glue. Very thin liquid, water consistency. You have to use a small paint brush to apply. Put your pieces together, then open the joint a hair to let the liquid flow with capillary action. It will run right down the whole join, if not, add more to where it left off. Press the pieces together and there should be a small bit of plastic that will ooze up out of the joint. sand this bit of ooze off and you will have a joint stronger than the plastic itself! I use tenax for everything plastic that has to be glued. I find that it will also work with some of your basic photoetch too, as it does melt the plastic a little, you can press your P-etch into place and after a few seconds it's done! Give it a swipe with some grit and ready for paint! With kits like Hasegawa or Tamiya where the pieces go together and the seams disappear.... This stuff is awesome!

Stephen
intruder500

[les]

Hope you don't live in California. The bottle says it may cause cancer in California. Thank goodness I live in Washington and am safe.

[Sauragnmon]

I work with the good old classic orange and white Testors, and also notice the stringer... Seems to only show up at some temperatures too, and I've noticed a Fresh tube doesn't do it often. Could be a combination of age and temperature, but I might just be going out on a limb. The stringers do get annoying, I use the flat edge of my exacto to get in and remove the troublesome ones.

[Devin]

I have to say I'm VERY surprised that so many people still use the Testor's tube glue. Mind if I ask why? To me there's just no reason to use the stuff: too thick, stringy, and you don't get near as clean of a joint as you do with liquid glue. I switched to liquid Testors and Tenax over 20 years ago and have never wanted to mess with the tube stuff again.

-Devin

[Avery Boyer]

Non-toxic stuff isn't like that, as far as I can tell it's just the orange tubes.

[les]

I've been told that Testors tube glue has a filler in it. So if you're looking for something to fill a seam as in hull halves, it might be the ticket.

[richter111]

There is a strength in the testors red glue that is purely amazing. If you have not used it, give it a try. Just keep in mind, it is not the only glue to use. When you are new to the hobby, you use what mom and dad buy for you. you learn to deal with its strengths and shortcomings. I remember getting overjoyed with a $5.00 kit and a new tube of glue.

I have a whole rack full of glues, epoxies, CA, mysterious chemical substances and witchcraft in a tube.

But I still enjoy a old last century technology revell/monogram/airfix kit, with all it's glaring errors and inaccuracies.

Sometimes ya just need a fun build!!!!

By the way, has anyone here built any of the 21st century $10.00 Wal Mart Models? They are 1/32 scale, ten bucks, and a hoot to build!!! They are complete pleasure in a box, and can be built quickly, and without breaking the bank, just the way modeling should be!


Ric