1/350 Yorktown CV5 Battle of Coral Sea

[TF17Greg]

Dear all as per the title this diorama will represent the situation on the Carrier during the recovery phase after the battle
May the 8th 1942.
I will try to represent the period when Yorktown was hit by a bomb and nearly by 2 others and the moments when the crew estiguished the fire that ensued the bombardment...
I will post pictures asap

[TF17Greg]

Here some pictures

[TF17Greg]

All the panels of the hull are way over scaled so l decided to re-do them all..plus all the port holes need to be drilled

[TF17Greg]

Here details on the panels and portholes

[TF17Greg]

Dear all here is today's update on the diorama Battle of Coral Sea...all the panels on the flotation line are in...now it's filing and placing some plastic putty...slowly but surely..enjoy

[TF17Greg]

Dear all here is today's update on the diorama Battle of Coral Sea...all the panels are placed...but there are a lot of gaps so plastic putty is needed...all the portholes in the upper part of the hull are poorly made. Filled them and will be re-done...enjoy

[Devin]

Nice work so far. In looking at my Merit kit, I've decided that the portholes have to be redone as well. I don't know of any model kit that's gotten them right: the holes should be drilled perpendicular to the surface they penetrate, not parallel to the waterline as kits make them.

Are you going to sharpen up the stem at all? In looking at the drydock photo of Yorktown, her stem is nearly a knife's edge. I haven't figured a way to properly tackle that on the Merit kit, or the 1/700 scale Trumpeter kit. Probably back-fill it with epoxy putty and start filing.

[TF17Greg]

Nice work so far. In looking at my Merit kit, I've decided that the portholes have to be redone as well. I don't know of any model kit that's gotten them right: the holes should be drilled perpendicular to the surface they penetrate, not parallel to the waterline as kits make them.

Are you going to sharpen up the stem at all? In looking at the drydock photo of Yorktown, her stem is nearly a knife's edge. I haven't figured a way to properly tackle that on the Merit kit, or the 1/700 scale Trumpeter kit. Probably back-fill it with epoxy putty and start filing.

Indeed the portholes are always not correct on scale models...that is the limitation of a plastic kit...for the stern l will file it as much as l can...l don't want to file to much
And thank u for your kind comment..

[TF17Greg]

use a knife's blade edge as a scraper to do that.

That can also be an idea...

[TF17Greg]

Daaaamn those portholes.... here is today's update on the diorama...
Enjoy and have a nice evening

[TF17Greg]

you might want to look at these links to correct the bow taper, hull plating & port holes locations.
https://www.navsource.org/archives/02/020527b.jpg
https://www.navsource.org/archives/02/020527c.jpg
https://www.navsource.org/archives/02/020578.jpg
https://www.navsource.org/archives/02/020556.jpg
https://www.navsource.org/archives/02/020573.jpg
https://www.navsource.org/archives/02/020550b.jpg
https://www.navsource.org/archives/02/020503.jpg
https://www.navsource.org/archives/02/05.htm

Thank u very much for these...

[SovereignHobbies]

Nice start. I just began the same kit myself. I'll watch with interest

[Willie]

Hi there Greg and all,

Excellent project so far.

Daaaamn those portholes.... here is today's update on the diorama...
Enjoy and have a nice evening

Greg, this is an excellent idea. Open portholes gives a lot of life to any hull, let alone one in this scale. As I assume it is your case, I open my portholes and hull scuttles with a drill, and widen them with the long profileless nail of a compass, that is sharp but wider than the porthole itself. I have discovered that adding some extra pressure on the nail and making a kind of angled circles with it at finishing off every scuttle I get a raised ring of plastic around the hole, imitating to perfection the real holes on the hull. This effect:

It is a fine detail that can be observed only with good light, but it is perfect for the scale I was building when this pic was taken, (1/300). I think that it would work in your portholes, that at 1/200 would be the same size as my scuttles, and it costs absolutely nothing at all.

Nice going from this side, and very best regards,

Willie.[/size]

[TF17Greg]

Dear all here is today's update on the diorama...first of all the rope holes in the bow are totally wrong...so l changed them...then l started the "thin-canning" and you can also see the position of the damages on may the 8th...enjoy

[TF17Greg]

Hi there Greg and all,

Excellent project so far.

Daaaamn those portholes.... here is today's update on the diorama...
Enjoy and have a nice evening

Greg, this is an excellent idea. Open portholes gives a lot of life to any hull, let alone one in this scale. As I assume it is your case, I open my portholes and hull scuttles with a drill, and widen them with the long profileless nail of a compass, that is sharp but wider than the porthole itself. I have discovered that adding some extra pressure on the nail and making a kind of angled circles with it at finishing off every scuttle I get a raised ring of plastic around the hole, imitating to perfection the real holes on the hull. This effect:

Hull (152).JPG

It is a fine detail that can be observed only with good light, but it is perfect for the scale I was building when this pic was taken, (1/300). I think that it would work in your portholes, that at 1/200 would be the same size as my scuttles, and it costs absolutely nothing at all.

Nice going from this side, and very best regards,

Willie.[/size]

Hey Willie
Super idea....and thank u for your kind comment, but the portholes on Yorktown are with a halfmoon "cover" so l will add those while l�ll place the degaussing cables
By the way the model l�m doing is 1/350 scale

[TF17Greg]

Dear all here is today's update on the diorama....well the "thin-canning" takes a looooot of time..plus l started the degaussing cable enjoy
If you want check out my way of doing the "thin-canning"

[TF17Greg]

Thank u very much Davidp for your kind reply, pictures and links...
Just to be sure thin canning is always there... you can check here on starboard and port of
Yorktown and Hornet
Check the pictures

[taskforce48]

I think it looks great and is a dedicated effort. It�s your model and you keep up the great work! AST improvement over the out of the box hull.

Matt

[TF17Greg]

but not to the extent that you are doing. even the plating on the real ships is almost invisible compared to your model.

Thank DavidP... it looks deep but it's ok to me...

[TF17Greg]

I think it looks great and is a dedicated effort. It�s your model and you keep up the great work! AST improvement over the out of the box hull.

Matt

Thanks Matt indeed it's my model but l'm always open to critism to do better
As l said to DavidP it looks deep but it's ok to me...thin-canning can be tricky plus if u over do it it's too much
Anyways stay tuned more thin canning to come...