VeryFire 1/350 Takao 1944 (高雄)

[Dan K]

If I don’t start posting, this W-I-P will never happen. So, here’s a first glimpse of progress, then I’ll add posts as time allows to backfill information and point out certain things of interest. I began this build about 3 months ago, at the end of August.

As of now, the hull has been waterlined, railed, painted, given a very light wash, and a red waterline mark added. The only details that I will mention now are that I used Gold Medal Model main deck railings instead of the VF railings and I added cages for the life rings at the stern. The short explanations are that the VF railings are straight bar, not drooped, and VF does not include the life ring cages as part of its deluxe PE package.

[Dan K]

The main deck is about 90% complete and being finished separately from the hull. It’s incomplete because the PE fret containing the rest of the linoleum tiedowns at the stern (along with some hawser reels frames) has been lent out to one of the PE aftermarket companies to help with creating some new PE treaded metal deck overlays for the aircraft handling deck and parts of the 01/High Angle Gun Deck. I expect to get these back in the near future.

I'll comment further on, but the vents, hatches and other details are extremely impressive for styrene, though a bit of a pain to properly remove from the tree.

[Dan K]

The impetus for this project was multifold. One was the desire to pair a heavy escort with my 1/350 Hiryu. I came across an early 1942 photo that included both ships at Staring Bay prior to the IJN’s foray into the Indian Ocean, known as Operation “C”. Another was the desire to just build a heavy cruiser . It turns out that my last heavy cruiser build was 13 years ago, the Aoshima 1/700 Maya kit. So, it was time.

I had purchased the Aoshima 1/350 retake version of Takao 1942 for this purpose several years ago. I did, in fact, start the kit. The hull was waterlined (with separate bulges – such fun) and the main deck stripped of the molded-on brass tie-down strips for the linoleum covered decks, plus holes drilled out for the mushroom deck vents.

Then, Veryfire announced their own 1/350 Takao kit, and the project went on hold. Given how nice I think VF’s Taiho kit is, I decided to wait on this release and then compare the two kits before continuing with just one of them. In the meantime, I built a Tamiya 1/350 Yukikaze 1943 and a 1/700 Ibuki CA (galleries to come) as well as start a 1/350 Hasegawa Shimakaze.

[Dan K]

Eventually, the VF kit was released earlier this year and after reviewing the kit and liking what I saw, I began to build it. A few comparative photos are posted below with the Aoshima and VeryFire hulls; Aoshima is on top. One surprise: the Aoshima kit hull is actually too long by a few millimeters.

As I pointed out in my review of this kit ( http://www.modelwarships.com/reviews/sh ... 0Takao.htm ), the VF kit has eliminated the need to install and properly blend in a piece of the hull for the sides of the 01 Gun Deck. This change actually eliminates a great deal of problematic work. The molded-on degaussing cable is also superior to what Aoshima offers as an add-on.

The VF hull has far more detail in its plating, riveting and discharge scuttles. The riveting was actually flush in the real thing; it’s debatable whether removing the rivets are worth the effort. I didn’t think so. I thought it would help add some visual complexity to the hull without being overtly noticeable once painted. Interestingly, the Aoshima portholes are slightly smaller in diameter and perhaps truer to scale.

There’s a noticeable difference in the slope of the main deck aft between the two kits. Japanese heavy cruisers were built with a slope in deck shear aft to help counter hull bending and bowing stresses. This slope began around frame 306. It looks as if the VF kit’s slope starts a few frames further aft, resulting in a steeper slope, but this is not overtly noticeable.

More to come.

[MartinJQuinn]

In the meantime, I built a Tamiya 1/350 Yukikaze 1943 and a 1/700 Ibuki CA (galleries to come) as well as start a 1/350 Hasegawa Shimakaze.

And what beauties they both are. In fact, Dan's Ibuki won Best Ship and Best in Show at local show in NY state this past October.

[Dan K]

Thx for the call-out, M.

Regarding to the hull, one thing worth mentioning are the addition of all the discharge pipes. These are included in the kit and have some unexpected shapes in cross-section. The photo record isn't entirely clear but VF may gotten these somewhat correct. I think the pipes are more rounded but.....

Each pipe is molded with two locating pins and there corresponding depressions on the inside of the hull are to be drilled out. However, if the alignments aren't precise, the pipe won't fit correctly. So, I just drilled out the top locating hole, cut off the bottom pin, and eyeballed the vertical line. It was easier to handle this way.

And not to belabor the riveting, nice detail, but overscale. Virtually impossible to see them in but a handful of photos of the real thing.

The hawsepipe holes for the anchors are a little closer to the correct shape than than those of Aoshima kit.

[Joe Simon]

Very nice work Dan!

[Jon C Ryckert]

Looking forward to this.

[Dan K]

Thx, guys.

I've not had much time, but I'll comment a little more on the railings. As mentioned, I used GMM IJN Gold Plus railings as they are drooped and more correct. (Note: I actually used railings from the dedicated GMM Takao set, but know that the GMM railings in the generic Gold Plus IJN railing set are identical.)

The GMM railings are technically correct in that every 4th or 5th stanchion is higher than the others, at least for the Takaos. However, practically speaking, those little raised stanchion tips caught on my fingers/arms/sleeves/etc. every time I made a pass over them. Not good for keeping the railings intact. So, I cut off all those tips.

Moving on, the deluxe detail set gives you four beautifully turned brass pieces to use as smoke generating canisters at the stern. But, there are no fan arrays to go with them. I have extra fans from my 1/350 Infini DD sets which I plan to install later in the build. Do do so easily requires drilling a hole in the top of each canister. Having no desire to struggle with the brass, I used the styrene canisters from the skit. IMHO, they look almost as nice.

[Dan K]

One last note regarding the hull, for now. There was slight bulge under the bow fairleads (somewhat exaggerated in the shot of Atago below). I suppose it was meant to help reduce chafing, though it also looks somewhat decorative. Veryfire handles this by supplying styrene and resin versions that show a slight bulge downward under the fairlead. The portion devoted to the bulge is actually not tall enough. It’s also wider than the area under it and leaves an overhang or soffit underneath. The Aoshima kit handles this detail the same way.

Neither kit’s approach is entirely satisfactory. Ideally, the overhang should be rounded and fuller underneath. I chose to use the styrene parts because any sanding would be less destructive than with the 3D printed resin. Despite the addition of putty underneath, I was never able to properly duplicate the bulge. My rendition is faired in a bit too neatly.

This is a minor detail, for sure, but since both companies chose to address it, it probably should have been molded as part of the bow form.

Btw, the two-piece hull fit together near perfectly.

[Dan K]

Main deck – Unlike the multi-piece Aoshima kit, VF supplies a one-piece deck. And the linoleum covered areas are smooth, stripped of deck equipment and linoleum tie-downs that are supplied separately. I think the deck is marvelous.

After much consideration, I decided that I would complete the deck separately from the hull. I reasoned that from a handling perspective, it would be easier to glue the tie-downs, paint, strip the brass, and add equipment details while it was off the hull. As a first step, there were repeated fittings of the deck to the hull in order to note gaps (a few narrow ones) and sand down any overly wide areas. Better now to do the sanding than later after everything was in place.

I started with adding the torpedo reload equipment that’s provided with the kit. These are a combination of PE and 3D printed parts. Unfortunately, PE fret F only provides 4 of the 8 metal bases that are needed. My kit was supposed to come with another small fret containing the remain 4 bases, but it did not. Upon request, VF shipped the missing fret to me. In the meantime, I installed the ones I had on hand. Adding the others inboard later on would not be an issue.

I subsequently painted the inside of this area white on the hull and on the sides of the funnel intakes. Plus the deck and reload equipment gray.

[Madhatter]

I am currently building this kit too and have had the same issues as you with the PE torp holders - I got 4 instead of 8. I contacted VF and they sent me out the replacement PE. Quite the over sight by them but not a deal breaker.
I also found the pressure strips that go on the deck didn't quite fit well either and the one up front interferes with the fitting of the superstructure - although I am beginning to suspect that it could be a builder issue.

[zs180]

Very impressive workmanship here!
Takao is my favourite Japanese class of cruisers - awesome looking vessels.
I might build one in 1/700 when I get tired of RN ships
I will be following this thread with great interest.

[Dan K]

Quite the oversight by them but not a deal breaker.

Agreed.

I am beginning to suspect that it could be a builder issue

To be honest, I did not have any issues with placement. I’m actually going to address the tie-downs next.

I might build one in 1/700 when I get tired of RN ships

Thx for the kudos and I agree they are awesome. Know that VF is about to release Takao in 1/700, with the tie-downs and decks handled the exact same way. So, why wait?

https://www.hobbyeasy.com/en/data/mltxy ... yrqzb.html

[Dan K]

As mentioned, VF has provided a main deck clear of equipment and obstructions to better enable the placement of full, one-piece grids of the brass tie-downs common to the decks of IJN cruisers. I think it’s brilliant, and a major time and effort saver. Not to mention allowing for the possibility of a cleaner build of a deck than previously possible.

I considered the best way (for me) to go about working the deck. Some folks have taken to painting the deck first with linoleum colored paint and then gluing the PE afterward. I find it easier to glue first, clean up with a blade and sanding stick for any oozing glue spots, paint, then carefully scrape off the paint off the strips. Doing so also allows for filling in of the countless pinholes that replicate the screwheads that secured the tie-downs to the deck.

So that’s what I did. Though, before I started, I drilled out all the holes for vents and deck equipment as indicated on the instructions.

Placement is aided greatly by the fact that rings of brass surround the turret barbettes. I found very little play in moving the PE from side to side. I began by using the capillary action of my CA cement (Zap-a-Gap medium), applied with thin copper wire, to secure the sections around the barbettes. Since the deck has noticeable camber, it was relatively easy to work from centerline out, applying glue to just the intersections of brass as opposed to attempting to place glue under every single section of brass. The final benefit came down at the deck’s edge, where it was possible to run a bead of glue for the entire length of the outboard strips that paralleled the centerline axis of the deck. Overall, I was extremely pleased with the outcome.

[Dan K]

Ditto the painting and scraping.

You’ll note that I’m missing the stern section of tie-downs. That fret was on loan to a one of the aftermarket manufacturers to work on treading for the aircraft handling deck.

More to come.

[Yuth]

the result is very nice !

[Dan K]

Thanks, Yuth.

The next step was one of the few unenjoyable steps that I’ve encountered so far, installing triangular braces around the barbettes. Each barbette gets 12 braces, excepting #4, which received 9 braces as some of its structure will be surrounded by superstructure. I just don’t think there’s an easy way to handle this, short of ignoring the braces entirely.

I chose to the mask the barbettes while painting the linoleum decking in order to have a clean surface to glue the vertical side of the braces to. I also painted the brackets separately prior to attachment, save for the edge to be glued. This part’s not so bad; it’s the next part, where I had to mask off around the barbettes at the deck level to paint the braces when joined to the barbette, that I disliked. (It’s not much better with the Aoshima kit. The braces are molded on, which means they still need to be masked off as some point in order to paint them gray.)

You’ll also notice that I’ve railed a small inset area on the deck. Innermost section is a wash basin for crew, but the longer, outboard section holds the ships boat booms when stowed. The VF instructions would have you rail outside this area, which would make it inaccessible. So, I used more GMM railings to depict it correctly.

The painting turned out fine. I don’t have a close-up of the finished barbettes at this stage, but it will be apparent in photos taken later on.

[Yuth]

Superb result !

The brass on the japanese main decks have always been a pain...

[Dan K]

Thx, Yuth.

While still waiting for the last section of brass tie-downs, I chose to add deck equipment to the completed sections of deck. This included hatchways, skylights, six types of deck vents, and storage boxes.

All the vents have intakes. There are PE mesh grills for the intake apertures, but the grills are oversize. So, it made more sense for me to just paint the apertures.

Also, the instructions aren’t clear as to how to orient the vents. I set them with the grills facing aft, but plenty of photos exist that show many of the grills facing forward. I’ve no idea whether or not the vents could swivel around or were set in position. Which makes little sense to me if facing heavy weather and water over the decks. Builder’s option, I guess.

I also used kit provided 3D printed boat chocks instead of their PE versions.

As an observation, Takao’s deck was the busiest among the sister with regard to deck equipment. At some point, it will be interesting to compare VF’s Atago kit deck with Takao to see if any changes were made to the equipment layouts between kits.