Hi all. I'm just starting out on the Trumpeter 1/350 Admiral Kuznetsov. I've been painting the hull with White Ensign colourcoats, Humbrol enamels, and Revell enamels. I'm using matt paints, for the grey on the flight deck, and the hull. What i'm finding however, is that the finish is terrible!
I always use brushes, always have, probably always will. I've never encountered this problem before, but the finish is streaky-where the matt surface has glossy streaks, albeit very fine glossy streaks.
I thought it was due to using pold brushes, so i got really expnsive set of new ones, real soft. Same result. I thought i got bad Humbrol paint (first hull colour i tried) so i bought Revell. Same result. I tried White Ensign colourcoats, Russian navy grey. Same result.
Its driving me mad, as i built the 1/200 Sovremenny a year or so ago, and had no problems like this. Any suggestions anyone? I don't want to use an airbrush, or spray, i need to figure out what is causing this, as i have a;lways used brushes, and always used matt paints.
Thanks all...please someone out there point out the simple fix that i clearly have not considered!
Matt finish on Enamel Paints....Help!
Moderator: JIM BAUMANN
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les
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mike mccabe
- Starling Models
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Robbo,
Hope I'm not stating the obvious here but are you sure you stirred the paints properly? Colourcoats in particular need a lot of stirring, when you think you are done, carry on for another few minutes. Otherwise as les said, looks like you'll have to use some mat coat, spray can would be you best option.
Mike
Hope I'm not stating the obvious here but are you sure you stirred the paints properly? Colourcoats in particular need a lot of stirring, when you think you are done, carry on for another few minutes. Otherwise as les said, looks like you'll have to use some mat coat, spray can would be you best option.
Mike
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Mike Coleman
Some suggestions that may help
Robbo,
I agree with Mike above. The most common reason for a matt or flat paint not drying so is lack of mixing. The additive that is used for a matt finish in oil based paints is usually an inert, fine ground powder that breaks up the flat surface of the paint so you get no spectral reflection. Often it is a silica material and is heavier than the paint pigments so it settles to the bottom of the jar and wants to stay there. An old rule of thumb for Humbrol paints was hand stir for 15 minutes. Sorry, but I am not that patient. My solution was to take an old axle from a toy car about 1/16 inch diameter and file a shallow slot on each side of one end. I then put it on my Dremel tool and use it to stir the panit in the tin and it takes a minute to get a good mix. Because I am using a straight rod and nothing with blades to stir with it doesn't splatte all over and I can get it along the botttom edges nicely. Make sure the edges of the slots are not sharp as you don't want to shave off any metal flakes and you sure don't want to wear through the tin. Hope that is useful. By the way, Dullcoat is great stuff but in light coats. Also be careful around rigging as it tends to bead up on it and if it is unwaxed thread and fuzz will be permanently accentuated. I do find that Dullcoat does yellow over time (I don't know if it has ever been reformulated so it does not) and it is noticable on some of my older models. I have some old models that are 40+ years now! I would like to say that I started making models in utero but the truth is I'm just getting to be an old f*rt. I have instead gone to clear matt acrylic as it does not yellow over time.
Mike Coleman
I agree with Mike above. The most common reason for a matt or flat paint not drying so is lack of mixing. The additive that is used for a matt finish in oil based paints is usually an inert, fine ground powder that breaks up the flat surface of the paint so you get no spectral reflection. Often it is a silica material and is heavier than the paint pigments so it settles to the bottom of the jar and wants to stay there. An old rule of thumb for Humbrol paints was hand stir for 15 minutes. Sorry, but I am not that patient. My solution was to take an old axle from a toy car about 1/16 inch diameter and file a shallow slot on each side of one end. I then put it on my Dremel tool and use it to stir the panit in the tin and it takes a minute to get a good mix. Because I am using a straight rod and nothing with blades to stir with it doesn't splatte all over and I can get it along the botttom edges nicely. Make sure the edges of the slots are not sharp as you don't want to shave off any metal flakes and you sure don't want to wear through the tin. Hope that is useful. By the way, Dullcoat is great stuff but in light coats. Also be careful around rigging as it tends to bead up on it and if it is unwaxed thread and fuzz will be permanently accentuated. I do find that Dullcoat does yellow over time (I don't know if it has ever been reformulated so it does not) and it is noticable on some of my older models. I have some old models that are 40+ years now! I would like to say that I started making models in utero but the truth is I'm just getting to be an old f*rt. I have instead gone to clear matt acrylic as it does not yellow over time.
Mike Coleman
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Robbo
Thanks for the suggetions guys. It's really frustrating, because i did plastic kits for so long, and never had such problems! I've just finished a three year scratchbuild, and i picked up the Trumpeter Kuznetsov as it looked a nice kit to get back into. I use the same paints i always did, and never had these problems. I will try mixing them with the rod in the dremel type method, sounds like it might do the trick.
I've never really used dullcoat, matt varnish, all that jazz. How much of a difference does it really make? I was always afraid of globbing up the finish, putting it on too thick and seeing a clear (albeit matt) layer visible on top of the paint, like you see on cheap toys, you know what i mean?
is it best to spray on, such as Humbrol Clear Matt, over something like a hull? My kuznetsov is at the stage where the hull and flight deck are assembled and painted, but nothing intricate added on.
On a different note, i'm considering giving up on painting the flight deck, and using a CAD program on my pc to print the flightdeck, with all the markings etc, as i dont really like decals for this job, especially when there are so many markings. Anyone tried this before? Any joy?
I've never really used dullcoat, matt varnish, all that jazz. How much of a difference does it really make? I was always afraid of globbing up the finish, putting it on too thick and seeing a clear (albeit matt) layer visible on top of the paint, like you see on cheap toys, you know what i mean?
is it best to spray on, such as Humbrol Clear Matt, over something like a hull? My kuznetsov is at the stage where the hull and flight deck are assembled and painted, but nothing intricate added on.
On a different note, i'm considering giving up on painting the flight deck, and using a CAD program on my pc to print the flightdeck, with all the markings etc, as i dont really like decals for this job, especially when there are so many markings. Anyone tried this before? Any joy?
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mostlyclassics
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- Location: Wilmette, IL USA
- Contact:
Another method to thoroughly mix paint in the jar or tin is to add several small fishline sinkers. The ones I use are about 3/32nds of an inch in diameter (maybe 3 to 3-1/2 mm.) They then stay in the container.
Every time I need a particular paint, I shake the container like crazy. I swear I can tell when the paint is thoroughly mixed by the sounds the fishline sinkers make riccocheting off the glass or metal walls of the container.
It only takes a couple of minutes. I also don't have anything to clean up after I'm done mixing the paint.
Every time I need a particular paint, I shake the container like crazy. I swear I can tell when the paint is thoroughly mixed by the sounds the fishline sinkers make riccocheting off the glass or metal walls of the container.
It only takes a couple of minutes. I also don't have anything to clean up after I'm done mixing the paint.