The Beacon 1/350 SCALE USS JACK H. LUCAS (DDG-125) kit

[Rick E Davis]

I bought this kit of USS JACK H LUCAS (DDG-125), the first Flight III unit, since it was advertised as having a "waterline" option and has been declared the most accurate DDG-51 kit made. I have never been impressed with full hull models, since they are never really complete in details and I always think of ships as being in the water most of their lives. Anyway, I'm confused about how to make this kit waterline?

First off, I have almost only built WWII destroyers in 1/350 scale. For larger subjects, because of space limitations, I will on occasion build in 1/700 scale. Hence, I was surprised how this new manufacturer has produced this model. The smaller parts are molded as most manufacturers of models do for smaller parts. But, the larger parts, like the three full length hull pieces are quite large and have these massive sprue's (many thicker in diameter than is normal) with a lot of "air" around them. The superstructure pieces are relatively large compared to what I'm use to seeing.

Attached images are from HyperScale and provided to them via Beacon. Posted here as reference only.

I have removed most of the large parts to see if they fit was as good as reviews I have read. The fit for this model is really nice and unique in how the Beacon people have engineered the fitting. However, when I looked at HOW a waterline version would be made, the instructions give no real clue instructions. I assumed assembling the upper hull piece and the black middle piece (equal to the boot stripe?) would get you a "true" waterline model. But, unlike conventional waterline/full hull models, the upper hull has these large tabs that go through the middle section and will mate to the lower hull (below waterline). The problem I see with this scheme for water-lining, is that the six large and one of the small tabs when just the middle section of the hull and upper hull are mated, the tabs protrude below the "waterline", not allowing the model to sit flat. I figure for waterline that you are suppose to cut these off? But, there are also three "ribs" that are on the centerline on the cross braces and they will protrude below the waterline as well. Those would be a little harder to remove without potential of breaking the frame.

I have thought of making a display base that would have openings for these tabs and ribs incase I decide in the future I wanted to display this model as full hull.

I don't plan on starting to work on this model until I figure out what I will do. Any thoughts?

[Timmy C]

I think their assumption is that you'd embed any protruding tabs into whatever you make the water out of so you can skip cutting them off, or just cut them off with your nippers or saw.

[Killerbeans]

My warerline ships are physically attattched to the base with screws. Seems good use of the hull frames.

[Admhawk]

Hi Rick, You can see from this image that the tabs are intended to go through and secure the lower hull. Also, not the internal sprue sections that have been removed. I see two choices, leave the tabs for the ship to be elevated slightly, allowing a deeper water layer, or cut/file/sand them down so the ship sits flat. All in all, it looks like a good way to ensure alignment of all three hull pieces.

I like the details on the kit, but I notice some are way overdone! (Like the spy panels and the sonar dome), but overall, very nice looking.



More images here, https://www.beacon-hobby.com/

[Killerbeans]

That drawing makes more sense.

[Dan K]

or cut/file/sand them down so the ship sits flat.

I would agree with Darren. Use the guide tabs to align the upper hull with the waterline section, glue the sections togther, then slice and sand off the tab remainders until the WL lies flush on a flat surface.

[Rick E Davis]

I should have stated that part of my post was critic of "HOW" they decided to make these three sections of the model's hull. Really out of the box Beacon doesn't have a waterline version, WITHOUT doing some surgeries. See attachment. You can more easily see that the tabs and the rib will protrude below the waterline. I'm an engineer and early in my career I worked for a company that made stuff from plastic. When I looked at this arrangement my thought was ... "Why didn't they put the tabs on the lower hull, putting the slots on the upper hull, and do away with the rib on what would be the waterline base?" The rounded rib on the centerline serves NO PURPOSE that I can see. They even have slots on either side of the rib, making cutting it off easier. But that would reduce the side to side rigidity?? Just a smooth cross rib would have made more sense.

As is I and anyone else interested in making a waterline version will have to do some surgery. At least I'm not cutting a full hull, while guessing where the waterline should be, to make a waterline model. Plus, thankfully they don't have armor plates on the hull.

As for the rest of the model, I have not tried assembly it. I have about ten other WWII-era destroyers I'm trying to finish as is.

[Admhawk]

"Why didn't they put the tabs on the lower hull, putting the slots on the upper hull, and do away with the rib on what would be the waterline base?"

Because.

[Rick E Davis]

"Because" .... they don't like those who cruise their ships on the carpet???

[Roberto]

We'd be more interested if you could tell us whether the enlarged stern lines of Flight III are correctly represented in this kit.

[Rick E Davis]

Actually I have no idea if the kit is "accurate" for the real ship, much less for the stern. I don't have official drawings nor dimensions of the ship's stern to answer that question. I can't find any really good dead astern views of USS JACK H LUCAS (DDG-125) or any of the Flight III destroyers. Most images I find online are glamor views from the Forward Quarter. Here are some "stern views" I did find, with the only the dead astern view being a very small image.

I added a dead astern view of the kit ... you tell me if the shape and scale size is correct???? The only thing I see questionable, is it looks like the sides on the real destroyer has a slight curvature to it.

This is my first BURKE class model, even though I wanted one to compare the size to my WWII kits. I never bought a kit before because; 1. The reviews I read said that kit was inaccurate or had other issues. or 2. The kit couldn't be built waterline. and/or was made by Trumpeter (they seem to work overtime making inaccurate models). Until I get around to actually building the kit, I won't know what is wrong or right about it.

DDG125-stern view.jpeg (28.91 KiB) Viewed 22 times