IJN Mogami (Tamiya 1/350)

[donalyah00]

And it can be done with great attention&precision, as we can see in your thread. Models presented in Gakkens are very inspirational.
I went trough your galleries - photos of Chokai and Tone bridges are really good! I like the detail (steps on walls particularly), "forest" made of rigging and perspective "from the deck". Any Myoko series vessel in your plans?

Regards,
Marek

[Dirk]

Thanks again, Marek!
Yes, I bought already the Aoshima Myoko in 1/350. I am now enjoing Jose's build of the Myoko and have some hope that there might be a Myoko super detail kit from Flyhawk (because they have one in 1/700).
But after finishing Mogami I have to make a tough decision, because now the following models are waiting in my storage:
1/350: IJN Atago, Myoko, Furutaka, Kongo, Akagi (and waiting for the limited edition of Titanic)
1/700: IJN Fuso and Yamashiro
Conclusion: You can buy them faster then build them.
When I was a boy, the opposite was true.

[Dirk]

Mogami141
Motorboat and -launch in position

Mogami142
Cutter added

Mogami143
2. catapult added

[Dirk]

Mogami144
Adding more details to the port catapult

[JIM BAUMANN]

Hallo Dirk

I must say--the small brackets like that...--I make those of paper--cut with scissors.

That way I can attach them with matt varnish; once tacked on--i apply a droplet of CA--this sucks into the paper and makes a good and very clean bond to the hull/detail--paint afterwards seals all in

the main advantage is that with paper you can make hundreds of brackets free- no worries about losing a few

-and they are much thinner than PE

Also--with the matt varnish--they can be moved around until perfect.

The model is looking very good--coming to Telford?
( I hope to have Bouvet

viewtopic.php?f=59&t=51420&st=180&start=20

also! .... )


tschuess

JIM B

[Dirk]

Hi Jim,

I will try your paper method the next time. Seems to be superior to PE. Thanks a lot!
Unfortunetely I can not come to Telford. At that time I am invited to give a presentation on a conference in China.

Here my last progress:
This is the procedure I used for adding positions for single 25 mm guns on the linoleum deck.
I airbrushed the Veteran Models parts (Mogami145-1) with WEM linoleum paint (Mogami145-2). Then I removed the paint of the prominent areas with a scalpell (Mogami145-3).

Mogami145

Now I removed a slice (width of a brass strip) (Mogami146-1) and another one (Mogami146-2).

Mogami146

Mogami147-1 shows the target area and Mogami147-2 the same area after adding the four parts.

Mogami147

Here the same position with the gun and ammo boxes.

Mogami148

The next pictures show two more examples.

Mogami149

Mogami150

Also obvious is the dust. I found out that a airbrush pistol is very effectiv in removing the dust.

[Dirk]

I added anchor chains and some details to the fo'c's'le.
Before final airbrush:

Mogami151

Mogami152

After final airbrush (Weathering will come later.):

Mogami153

Mogami154

Mogami155

Dirk

[Christian Bruer]

the ropes, clearly to see in the background of photo Mogami150 are truly amazing as the rest of the model too

Sad to hear you can't make it to Telford

[Dirk]

Thanks, Christian!
I was looking forward to go to Telford but the job comes first.
At least, Guilin in China seems to be a dream.

Guilin China.gif (45.44 KiB) Viewed 1698 times

Adding a Mogami to this scenery and it would be similar to Nichol Caballeros magnificent dio.
http://www.modelshipgallery.com/gallery ... index.html

But back to Mogami:

Mogami156
Signal platform (highlighted by red arrow). Too coarse, it has to go. I need plastic surgery here.

Mogami157
Fortunately, I have the appropriate tools (and the necessary cojones). Here you see my very fine pliers just before action.

Mogami158
Job is done. Platform is gone.

Mogami159
Same location with new platform and additional details

Mogami160
I also added simplified versions of flag boxes.

[Dirk]

I removed some details to substitute it with better parts.

Mogami161 Removing detail on deck

Better is to remove them in the beginning of a build.
At this state it might be dangerous to damage the paint and more serious: D U S T
Here the new part in position (deck winch from Veteran Models).

Mogami162 Camera sees still some dust after cleaning with a brush

I used a brush to remove the dust and for my eye (even with optivisor) everything looks clean. But with the camera: Oh my God!
But then I remembered: I have an airbrush! So I started carefully with 0.5 bar and increased pressure up to 2 bar (nozzle diameter 0.4mm). This gives a strong blast and is perfect to remove dust more effectively (Mogami163).

Mogami163 After airbrushing with "pure air"

Of course you have to be careful, too much blast might damage the model.

[Dirk]

Mogami164
(a) before
(b) and (c) after improving security

[J. Soca]

She is coming along amazingly Dirk!!


Jose

[Dirk]

Thank you, Jose!
I produced ammo boxes for the heavy AA guns. I used resin �sprues�, grind them to the right cross section and cut pieces. These resin boxes were decorated by two �T� sections (made from hand rails). On the left in Mogami165 there is also a 25 mm ammo box from Lion Roar, just for comparison. On the right the ammo boxes after air brushing.

Mogami165

[Christian Bruer]

Hi Dirk,

to see you reworking details on a nearly finished model (in my opinion) let me shiver!

[Dirk]

to see you reworking details on a nearly finished model (in my opinion) let me shiver!

Yes, it would be possible to avoid that by a better planning in the beginning.

Here a progress update:
For the last 9m cutter I used the part from VoyagerModel (Mogami166(a)) minus the tip (c) and glued it to the resin part (b). Then I added the tip (d) from the Flyhawk part (e).

Mogami166

This is the result (Mogami167(a)) and after adding more details and a wash with black watercolor (b).

Mogami167

Here the cutter in position (Mogami168).

Mogami168

[donalyah00]

Hello!

Yes, I bought already the Aoshima Myoko in 1/350. I am now enjoing Jose's build of the Myoko and have some hope that there might be a Myoko super detail kit from Flyhawk (because they have one in 1/700).

I hope that too. I know, that guys from Flyhawk are onboard this forum - they might get some inspiration from on-line builds and discussions.

But after finishing Mogami I have to make a tough decision, because now the following models are waiting in my storage:
1/350: IJN Atago, Myoko, Furutaka, Kongo, Akagi (and waiting for the limited edition of Titanic)
1/700: IJN Fuso and Yamashiro

If I may suggest something � Furutaka please. It is much less travelled road in IJN modelling recently.

Conclusion: You can buy them faster then build them.
When I was a boy, the opposite was true.

So true. Preparing to start one of IJN heavies, I am "fighting" with two subs in 1:400 scale. When I have moment I will put some pics under new topic.

Just wondering about the bases of 25 mm single AA guns. Shouldn't they be made of steel and therefore painted overall grey (just like the bow deck with welded on antislip steel strips)? I do not have any literature with me @the moment, but I cannot recall seeing linoleum bases with brass mounting strips. I think they should be also placed over the deck linoleum-mounting brass stripes. Please correct me if I am wrong.

Good job with the cutter, I like the rope-ring and the rescue wheel inside of the boat particularly. Nice touch!

[JIM BAUMANN]

TIP TOP WORK!!

Lots of dedication--and its getting finer too!

JIM B

[Dirk]

Thanks, Marek and Jim!

If I may suggest something � Furutaka please. It is much less travelled road in IJN modelling recently.

Yes, I agree. But after the IJN heavy cruisers Chokai, Tone and now Mogami I need a change now. My favorite at that time is IJN Kongo (The Flyhawk detail set looks very promising.).

Just wondering about the bases of 25 mm single AA guns. Shouldn't they be made of steel and therefore painted overall grey (just like the bow deck with welded on antislip steel strips)? I do not have any literature with me @the moment, but I cannot recall seeing linoleum bases with brass mounting strips. I think they should be also placed over the deck linoleum-mounting brass stripes. Please correct me if I am wrong.

With the bases of the 25 mm AA single guns I fear that you are right. I think I will change this in the future. Thanks for pointing this out.

Lots of dedication--and its getting finer too!

Yes, this is a result of following your advice to use an optivisor.

Here is my last progress:
This is the procedure I used to produce cable-reels: I started with a 0.5 mm � steel wire to coil a thin sewing thread. I coiled several layers by using all the time gel-type CA-glue. Then I marked the desired length (Mogami169).

Mogami169

Then I cut this length with a Proxxon (Mogami170).

Mogami170

For cutting the rest of the thread (Mogami171(b)).

Mogami171

I employed scissors and the diamond wheel again to produce even surfaces (Mogami171(a)). The result is shown in Mogami172(b).

Mogami172

Then it was time for my special pair of scissors. Only this type of scissors is effective in cutting the very small thread hairs because it is armed with teeth. The teeth are holding the fine hairs before cutting. I bought this (Fine Scissors - sharp/sharp 'Super-Cut' - 11.5 cm 1652) from
http://protools.be/E_frame.html?http:// ... _home.html
I bought there also the Ultra-Fine Scissors Curved (bowed) - 12 cm Article code: 1025 which is perfect for making very tiny cuts during rigging.
Mogami173 shows the resulting cable-reels.

Mogami173

According to the Tamiya instructions there should be 3 reels on the linoleum covered decks. From the Miyukikai plan it was possible to identify 8 reels. I followed the Miyukikai plan. The next pictures depict 6 of these rails in position.

Mogami174

Mogami175

Mogami176

Mogami177

Mogami178

[Dirk]

The plastic part for the boom from Tamiya looks quiet good (maybe better then most flatter PE booms).
Therefore, I added only some minor brass parts to the plastic part (Mogami179(a)).

Mogami179
(a) parts for boom; (b) glued; (c) air brushed

Here the boom in place after adding ropes and a wash:

Mogami 180
boom in place

[Dirk]

Just wondering about the bases of 25 mm single AA guns. Shouldn't they be made of steel and therefore painted overall grey (just like the bow deck with welded on antislip steel strips)? I do not have any literature with me @the moment, but I cannot recall seeing linoleum bases with brass mounting strips. I think they should be also placed over the deck linoleum-mounting brass stripes. Please correct me if I am wrong.

Because I think Marek is right here (and I appreciate Marek�s criticism) I had to do another surgery.
Mogami181 shows the state before. The 4 bases of the 25 mm AA guns are highlighted by red arrows. This configuration looks nice to me but it is very likely to be wrong.

Mogami181: before

Now (Mogami182) the 4 guns are mounted on steel bases.

Mogami182: after

Mogami183 is a zoom of one base (a) before and (b) after my little surgery. I don�t know if it looks better or worse but it is certainly nearer to reality.

Mogami183 (a) before; (b) after