1/350 french battleship RICHELIEU/l'Arsenal Upgrade Set

[JIM BAUMANN]

Very very good--very methodical and organised!!

Love the PE rails all pre-bent....


so much very fine detailing ...really excellent work!



Jim Baumann

[LE BOSCO]

Very very good--very methodical and organised!!

Thank you very much Jim for your comment
As for the organization,I am lucky to live in a country,Or this quality, us made shine all over the world,I specify that I am French
best regards
Nicolas

[Christian Bruer]

Hello Nicolas,

amazing progress at your Richelieu. To look at your clean and detailed work is always a good inspiration for my own work!

[LE BOSCO]

Hello gents
thank's Christian For your kind comment
I begin the last "big work�on my Richelieu, by the mast, the part of trumpy is really very ugly,Thus I redone

With a little of patience, and of basic materials, I obtained that, the mast front view

Of the side

And By rear

More than fifty parts for this mast.......just for the size

The continuation is on the rangefinder, that receives its optics,the railings and a ladder


To finish, a view of the funnel, with the mast, and the rangefinder temporarily installed



Veiled for the moment, the continuation the next time
best regards
Nicolas

[jeroen zuiderduin]

Ridiculously good!
I take my hat off.

Jeroen

[Dino Carancini]

...I'm enjoying every single picture here! Top class work!

BRAVO ( again )

Dino

[LE BOSCO]

Hello gentlemen

A small clarification,the last time,I have indicated,a configuration of the tower of the chimney,like this one



which is not true for the configuration of 1952,Indeed, after final checks before paint,I realized that the "bulwark"(pavois in french),was raised front the magnetic compass,and instead of having two ladders,single one was present on the port side! (black arrow)



and after a little over a year of work, the paint job would finally begin!!the proof



I raided in my "drug dealer" thirty seven paint pots ,it was a happy man

best regards
nicolas

[moomoon]

I really like all your scratchbuilt little stuff, thank you to share
Bravo, good luck with paint!

[Bill Livingston]

This is incredibly neat and clean... and I too am looking forward to the paint going on...

I love watching your build threads... You always look so organised and everything looks well planned and methodical... Great work

[LE BOSCO]

Hi gents

Bill thank you for the kind comments
The painting work has to begin, and just like that, the workshop paint, and the �photographic studio�



I grouped the parts, has to paint by color, Here the light gray



And the dark gray (Parts which will be masks and painted then in light gray)



In first a pre shading with a Dark brown



Then the application of a veil of beige clearly



Then, strips of 1mm x20mm are cut from masking tape



And will be applied one has one, in a random way, this is just the begin



Veiled for the moment!

best regards
Nicolas

[Stefano Salesi]

intresting preparation for the paint stage! (love the "photographic studio" thing)
for the deck painting technique...well, you are a brave man..all those stripes of masking tape are scaring me

[Dave Rowe]

Bonsoir Nicolas
Wonderful progress!

To save your sanity with the masking tape this might be a good alternative for you:
http://www.dragonmodelsusa.com/dmlusa/p ... id=GNZGT53

[sirmaumau]

Hi Besco, glad to see your progression! I found that you use acrylic paint,and I think they should be pretreated by "Tamiya primer 2000 ",cause acrylic are somewhat fragile,are't they?I painted my richelieu with primer first and then tamiya acrylic ,but it seemed not so good!

[Rob 2]

Good to see some paint going on Nicolas.

I use Tamiya paint thinned with IP and don't use a primer as I don�t want to risk clogging the detail. True adhesion isn�t brilliant but it depends how much you intend handling the painted surface. I have found using cellulose to thin Tamiya paint improves adhesion on styrene but the fumes are a problem as can a dusty grainy finish if the air pressure is too high or the brush held to far from the surface as the thinners have started to evaporate.

Looking forward to seeing more,
Rob.

[LE BOSCO]

Hello Gents


Thank You for your feedback! Dave, thanks� for the link, but, it�s not for the cut the strips, which is hard for my sanity�. but for apply one to one the strips

My deck, after the first application( randomly!)of the strips (stephano a true nightmare)



Then, a veil of the tint basis, added of dark brown��and , Here we go again for a session of application of strips



For now, we get it, not very impressive!! This is the time involved or the wash (raw umber +gas F)



Do not hesitate to apply roughly, after a drying time (5mm) the excess is wiped with a soft cloth .The two areas (black arrows) were treated



The deck entirely treated





A close up of the deck, with turrets of 152 and the �cemetery� in they final color (light grey)



Sirmaunau, I do not use tamiya primer, the coat of gunze paint is strong enough
Do not hesitate I had to write a review
Best regards
Nicolas

[Bill Livingston]

Hi Nicolas,

That is a fantastic wooden deck... and the photography showing the technique is first class... probably the clearest and neatest explanation/tutorial of how to airbrush a wooden deck that I have ever seen... You should do a more detailed version for the tips and tricks section. You know the sort of thing... what colour precisely, what thinners you use and in what proportion, what your airbrush pressure is, distance spraying.. etc.. etc...

The wash looks interesting. Did you airbrush a coat of varnish on first to protect the acrylic paint underneath, or did you use very thinned oils directly on it?

Whatever you did, it looks stunning. Easily the cleanest and most impressive wooden deck I have seen on here, beautiful technique. With an outcome like that, why would anyone even consider a badly fitting and over thick wooden deck... beginning to wonder why I am using a wooden deck on my Mikasa... but then my airbrush technique is nowhere near as good as yours

I have always been impressed with your airbrush skills and we could all learn a lot from you... Thanks for the post.

[JIM BAUMANN]

what Bill said!



Looks very good indeed!


JIM B

[Bill Mall]

This is very nice, I particularly like the wood effect you got on the deck. Keep up the magnificent work.


Bill

[LE BOSCO]

probably the clearest and neatest explanation/tutorial of how to airbrush a wooden deck that I have ever seen... You should do a more detailed version for the tips and tricks section. You know the sort of thing... what colour precisely, what thinners you use and in what proportion, what your airbrush pressure is, distance spraying.. etc.. etc... ....

.......The wash looks interesting. Did you airbrush a coat of varnish on first to protect the acrylic paint underneath, or did you use very thinned oils directly on it?........

HI gents

thank you for your feedback ! I does not know if my explanations are really very clear but ,my written English is really too bad,then to make a tutorial, the result would be really ridiculous

For the coat of varnish,not need has this stage,indeed,I use the acrylics paints MR Color(Gunze),which is semi-gloss ,thus ,the coat is very resistant

I hope to have answered has a part of your question. And if that really interests the persons, I shall try to make a more detailing explanation!

best regards
Nicolas

[LE BOSCO]

HI gent's

At this stage of progress, I still checked if I had not forgotten of parts to be produced�.and I had forgotten much of parts
To started



From left to right, a fairlead large, a fairlead with roller, a vent, and a skylight



Always left to right, a chest, again a skylight, a speaker, a navigation light, an attachment point for the blake slip



Ammo box for 20mm



And a sky lookout



a calibrate compass magnetic, compass navigation ,and gyroscopic repeater
And ,just for the size



I'm going to continue the work by painting the hull after the masking the deck and lots of other things
Best regards
Nicolas