The Ship Model Forum

David,

That approach is definitely a cleaner more meticulous approach than what I did. After cutting out those protrusions with the Dremel tool I had jagged edges. After smoothing the mineral clay on one side on a flat surface I laid them flat over the openings. I pressed down the edges of the clay to ensure I had a seal against the hull but did not press down on the clay over the openings. I then turned the hull around and poured in the mixed resin. Its very liquid y so the bottom of the inside of the hull is covered with it including the openings. As it was one continuous pour I don't think it will be going anywhere.
So where you used a chisel I used a hammer.

Franz

Sorry Dave, just my clumsy way of trying to say you were more detailed about doing it than me.

Again I wish I had your skills.

Franz

Hi There,
I am building Trumpeter's 1/200 USS Arizona, and have been reading members build notes and taking note of the pictures members have placed on the forum. In turn which has inspired me to incorporate the hull "fuel lines" myself as a nice touch.
my question is, was the fuel line fitted on the starboard or portside or both sides to the upper hull? as I have seen postings with all variations?

Any advice appreciated

Thanks

It was definitely on the port side only.

I originally posted these pictures of my completed scratch built 1/192 Arizona in the Main Forum, but I thought they also belong in this thread.

Larry

Some additional pictures.

Thankyou so much for your help, i can now carry on with some more progress.

If anyone is interested, I have a copy of Stilwell's Arizona: An illustrated History for sale on e-bay.

Larry

Let's hope it stays there forever since your post is on a "forever" thread and we hate it when information goes out of date!

In more pertinent news, Lauren Bruner of USS Arizona has passed away at the age of 98. - http://www.dreamgifttoamerica.com/

_________________
Tracy White -Researcher@Large

"Let the evidence guide the research. Do not have a preconceived agenda which will only distort the result."
-Barbara Tuchman

Thanks Tracy. It's a good day for reflection.

Jim. (Nino)

Hi all.

Just about to get into my 1/200 Arizona with the full Big ED PE set, White Ensign additions and the Scaledecks.com wooden deck, but here is what causing me a headache - the age old argument of colour.

I'm torn between the absolute accuracy of the darker sea blue which can swallow a lot of the detail as it absorbs the light, or lightening up the model with a medium grey on the verticals to help the detail pop out a little more.

I have seen some beautiful models which have been painted in a medium blue-grey/medium grey similar to the Mr Hobby H53.

However, I'm really struggling to find a shade of Acrylic that will allow me to maintain a degree of accuracy but still allow the detail to show.

I am geared for Acrylics but would appreciate any advice on what colour paint you guys might suggest to help narrow it down. I'm happy to do some mixing if that is necessary. I've attached a picture below of a colour scheme that appeals but would welcome any advice.

Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

If you want absolute accuracy you must go with 5-D Dark Grey - it's a fact she wore it in 1941. What is unclear is what Arizona was painted in at the time of the attack on Pearl Harbor. Some combination of 5-D Dark Grey and 5-S Sea Blue or 5-O Ocean Grey is most likely, but we have nothing official to back that up.

_________________
Tracy White -Researcher@Large

"Let the evidence guide the research. Do not have a preconceived agenda which will only distort the result."
-Barbara Tuchman

You also have the option, with very minimal modification (mainly: delete the radar platform on the foremast and add the range clocks to both tripods), of portraying her in the first half of i941, painting her up in a nice, bright (compared to Ms. 1 - either version) Standard Gray - and you get to paint the Kingfishers in full yellow-wing glory!

- Sean F.

Thanks for the advice.

I'd seen the colour schemes on the Whit Ensign and Sovereign Hobbies website and was looking for decent colour match and advice, and to see if others had found some combination or shortcut that worked.

Trying to get the right combination to represent accuracy and still allow the detail of the model to be visible is proving to be more complicated than the model.

I'm going to have to make a decision at some point.

Thanks Sean - I will give this option some consideration. Not seen it done that often before.

Another option would be to go with "Scale Color". It uses white or light shade of gray added to the original color (in this case the dark grey) to take into account scale and or weathering. Check the Tips and Techniques part of this site with the link I've attached. Actually what I'm referring to when I say "weathering" would more appropriately be described as fading of the paint color over time due to the elements.

Franz

viewtopic.php?f=4&t=154868

If I missed this earlier in the thread I apologize...

I'm working on my 1916 Arizona model and have begun applying paint. Does anybody know whether the decks above the main decks were light grey, dark grey, wood planked, or brown linoleum?

Also, were the ships boats painted the same grey as the ship? What color were the interior/upper surfaces of the ships boats?

Thanks!

_________________
Michael

Love building and CAD modeling WWII Capital Ships

1/1200 Battle of Hampton Roads diorama in progress
1/1200 1945 USS Pennsylvania CAD model in progress

Just saw this morning that Donald Stratton has passed away. Only two survivors left now...

Rest in Peace!

https://www.navytimes.com/news/your-nav ... ied-at-97/

_________________
-Nelson
Current Project:
1:200 U.S.S. Arizona
1:350 U.S.S. Chicago SSN-721

Future Projects:
All of them!

He had a good run. Fair winds and following seas shipmate!

Good thing he passed away peacefully in his sleep. He already endured more pain than most of us could ever bear. RIP Sir, and Thank You for your service.