The Ship Model Forum

by **DrewVIII** » Tue Feb 26, 2019 5:48 pm

It looks like the original poster has not logged on in some time. Anyone here replicate this project or something similar? I am in the planning phase of converting the 1942 Lex model to a late 1943 Saratoga. Basically the same project as this, just minor differences as the Saratoga was refitted in late 1943- early 1944. I am new to modeling so it will be quite a journey.

by **AdrianSmith** » Wed Apr 19, 2017 3:04 am

JimRussell wrote:Adrian,

This reply may seem absurd, but the Sara's white deck markings are white colored pencil.

A metal ruler was clamped to the deck and a spacing of .25"white, .25"blank, .25 white, etc was used.

The center line was one stroke wide and the off center lines were .060" wide. The two edges of the wide lines were done first and then the center was just colored in.

This technique does not yield 100% coverage, thus is immediately "weathered".

Jim

That doesn't seem absurd at all, and it worked beautifully! Thanks Jim!

-Adrian

by **Goodwood** » Sun Apr 02, 2017 9:19 pm

billyboy wrote:using masking tape when brush painting is tricky!

You won't prevent paint bleeding under the masking tape unless you dry-brush it. Capillary action caused by the planking detail is a perfect storm for paint bleed!

So simply paint the first coat in the same colour as the surrounding colour you've just masked over. When it inevitably leaks under the paint it matches perfectly, and when this first coast dries it seals the edge of the masking tape quite well- the next coat will not bleed under the tape.

Will

Why did that never occur to me? Next time something like this happens, I'm definitely following this suggestion�it was pretty frustrating having to mask and paint the red stripes on the Revell Venator-class Star Destroyer and then having to go back and fix the bleed.

by **billyboy** » Sun Apr 02, 2017 2:07 pm

using masking tape when brush painting is tricky!

You won't prevent paint bleeding under the masking tape unless you dry-brush it. Capillary action caused by the planking detail is a perfect storm for paint bleed!

So simply paint the first coat in the same colour as the surrounding colour you've just masked over. When it inevitably leaks under the paint it matches perfectly, and when this first coast dries it seals the edge of the masking tape quite well- the next coat will not bleed under the tape.

Will

by **JimRussell** » Tue Mar 28, 2017 9:46 pm

Adrian,

This reply may seem absurd, but the Sara's white deck markings are white colored pencil.

A metal ruler was clamped to the deck and a spacing of .25"white, .25"blank, .25 white, etc was used.

The center line was one stroke wide and the off center lines were .060" wide. The two edges of the wide lines were done first and then the center was just colored in.

This technique does not yield 100% coverage, thus is immediately "weathered".

Jim

by **Timmy C** » Fri Mar 10, 2017 2:10 pm

I'd try drybrushing - you'll have to experiment with just how dry, and in which direction relative to the tape edge (towards or away from) delivers the best results.

As a bonus, if it's not completely neat...well, call it weathering!

by **pbudzik** » Fri Mar 10, 2017 10:03 am

I don't think you are going to have much success with a brush. You may need to use decals.

Paul

by **AdrianSmith** » Mon Mar 06, 2017 11:33 pm

pbudzik wrote:If you have paint running under your mask, you're laying on too much too wet. Here are my tips on masking ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDS5CCs5LQo

Paul

Thanks Paul. The problem is that I'm tape masking perpendicular to a grooved styrene deck. Getting the tape into every groove to prevent the paint from running along the valley of the groove has proven next to impossible. And I'm brush painting, not airbrushing. I don't have an airbrush setup.

Any thoughts would be appreciated. Thanks!

-Adrian

by **pbudzik** » Mon Mar 06, 2017 7:49 pm

If you have paint running under your mask, you're laying on too much too wet. Here are my tips on masking ...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UDS5CCs5LQo

Paul

by **AdrianSmith** » Mon Mar 06, 2017 5:46 pm

JimRussell wrote:More photos.....

After moving to Japan from the U.S., dealing with three household goods moves, getting settled, and everything else that goes along with a military move, I'm finally getting back to my Bikini-transit Saratoga.

My question is (and please forgive me if this has been addressed and I'm missing it somewhere) how do I mask grooved styrene to get white deck lines like in Jim's pic? I've tried tape masking and the white seeped under the tape along the grooves. Should I be trying to use liquid mask? Something else?

I know this thread is old and I apologize but Jim's Saratoga is the canon for what I'm hoping to accomplish.

Thanks in advance to everyone for their help!

-Adrian

by **robertmelvin** » Tue Sep 01, 2015 10:31 pm

Very impressive work on a proud and beautiful lady. I'd say you did her proud. Congratulations, she looks great.

Bob

by **AdrianSmith** » Tue Sep 01, 2015 8:47 pm

JimRussell wrote:Adrian,

Evergreen #4040, V groove, .040" groove spacing and .040" thick. One 6" x 12" sheet is all you need if you use most of the Trumpeter deck (as I did).

Jim

Thanks Jim! Much appreciated.

-Adrian

by **JimRussell** » Tue Sep 01, 2015 8:45 pm

Adrian,

Evergreen #4040, V groove, .040" groove spacing and .040" thick. One 6" x 12" sheet is all you need if you use most of the Trumpeter deck (as I did).

Jim

by **AdrianSmith** » Tue Sep 01, 2015 5:08 pm

JimRussell wrote:Modifying the flight deck turned out to be easier than I had any right to expect, the Trumpeter plank spacing was appx .039" and I bought some Evergreen .040 scribed sheet that was a very good match. Did NOT have to skin the entire deck.

As the pics show the flight deck bow and stern had to be modified for CV-3. The stern of CV-3 had the big ramp eliminated and was longer, while the bow section was slightly wider forward and had straight sides. Most of the midships area was identical (thankfully) between CV-2 and CV-3. The close up shows the match between Trumpeter and Evergreen.

Jim

Hi Jim! Your Saratoga looks amazing! I'm sorry for posting so long after you completed her but I've just started a conversion of the Trumpeter kit to Sara as she was on her transit to Bikini and I'm trying to make sure I get the correct flight deck styrene from Evergreen. Do you by chance remember which it was that you used? I know it was 0.040 scribed sheet but was it the V-groove? The clapboard? Freight car?

Thanks!
-Adrian

by **Mgunns** » Sat Nov 29, 2014 5:37 pm

Hello Jim:

Outstanding job on the Sara. I am planning on doing mine in the 30's scheme as depicted by the kit. No major reworks in mind. I like the "Murderer's row", looks great.

Best

Mark

by **ModelMonkey** » Sun Sep 28, 2014 7:53 am

Love it. World class conversion!

by **JimRussell** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 9:43 am

Abram,

Good to hear from you! When you get back the collection (45 and counting) will be here. I am a couple of miles from the NW corner of 101, the trip is all expressway.

Scratchbuilding is fun and not difficult. Get good references and start hacking. Most of the fun is figuring out how to do it. Failures are to be expected, are generally cheap and lead to an acceptable result.

The one hurdle to overcome on a major bash is the initial destruction of that "expensive" kit.

Jim

by **ArizonaBB39** » Mon Oct 12, 2009 4:44 am

She looks wonderful Jim!

Once I get back in the States next year I will need to make the drive from Tempe to Peoria to see your collection! Maybe you could teach me how you scratchbuild so much too!

Keep up the good work!

by **Devin** » Fri Mar 13, 2009 12:20 pm

Great work. One of my "someday when I have unlimited time and money" projects is a late-war Sara. Yours turns out beautiful.

by **kidcurrie42** » Thu Mar 12, 2009 3:46 pm

Beautiful work Jim

, One thing though! That flooring needs to be changed, a deep blue would work really well

Happy Modeling

John

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Converting the 1/350 Trumpeter 1942 CV-2 to a 1944 CV-3

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