1/96 HMS Iron Duke (1916)

ARH · Post by **ARH** » Sat Aug 20, 2005 1:25 pm

HISTORY

HIST.jpg

IDX.jpg

idb1.jpg

ARH · Post by **ARH** » Sun Aug 21, 2005 10:21 am

HULL.

Getting rib shapes, scanned from drawings.

25 copied and cut out of paper

The wavey section as some one asked this the half breadth plan, it shows where the ribs fit along the hull.

enjoy. ARH

ARH · Post by **ARH** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 12:17 pm

RIB SHAPES IN WOOD

We now copy the rib shapes on to our wood and cut them out,

The keel shape is cut out and stood up on a very flat board
Ribs are glued into place with water proof white glue, PVA

ARH · Post by **ARH** » Mon Aug 22, 2005 5:48 pm

DECK

To get the deck shape , I scan the drawings and piece the sections together.

I cut the deck out of 1/16 inch plywood and glue in place.

ARH · Post by **ARH** » Tue Aug 23, 2005 5:07 pm

PLANKING THE HULL.

The first thing to do is turn the hull over so she is resting on her deck, also add some weights inside the hull when you first start planking

I use balsa wood 1/8 inch x 3/8 x 39 inches, and use water proof white glue to attach to the hull, were a joint on a rib is , it is cut on a diaganal, this gives a larger area to glue to.

I use house hold pegs to help told the balsa in place, also drawing pins

To get the stern shape I use solid balsa blocks and sand to shape.

Also I do the same at the bow. and then cover it with filla paste.

The hull is covered with very fine fibra matting and resin brushed in to it and left to dry.

The whole hull is then covered with filla paste and sanded to shape, using fine sand paper, and finished off with a wet and dry paper, use lots of water to get a good finish.

When the hull is dry you can give it a few coats of under coat paint, sanding between each coat.

enjoy. ARH

ARH · Post by **ARH** » Wed Aug 24, 2005 5:09 pm

HULL PART 2

Now we are going to cut the access in to the deck, as a sailing model we need these to put in our batteries, radio gear and rudders also prop shafts. The hole needs an upstand to stop water getting in to the hull when on the water.

Now we are going to plate the hull, this is done using litho plate, a waste product from the printing industry, it's a very soft aluminium plate attached to the hull with contact adhesive. Having studied all my photo's I worked out where the plates needed to run.

Here you can see some of the WEM paints needed for the model.

Next I fit the bildge keels, these are plastic angle , glued and pinned in position.

Here you can see every thing I have done in the post.

enjoy, ARH

ARH · Post by **ARH** » Sat Aug 27, 2005 3:18 pm

RUDDERS,

HMS IRON DUKE has 2 rudders, located behind the two inboard props, the first thing to do is put two hollow shafts in the hull in the correct position, behind the two inboard props, sticking out from the hull about 1/2 inch, but inside the hull you have to make sure they are at least 1 inch above the water line, this stops water from getting into the hull when the model is ballasted on the water, if not the water pressure is forced up the shaft and into the model, hence SINKING.

Then we cut two shafts and solder on a piece of brass plate

then make two arms and solder on two lock nuts, also cast a resin filla piece over the brass plates large enough for the rudders,

Mark and sand to shape,

With some wire bent to shape you can make the linkage arms

Then everything is put together in the boat, and you have your rudder control, which is connected to a servo when the radio is fitted, all this work has to be done at this early stage of the build,

kennylibben · Post by **kennylibben** » Sat Aug 27, 2005 7:22 pm

looking good.
2 quick questions. what is the gray covering your hull? just paint or a type of resin or fiberglass to thicken and stabalize it?

and

are these your radio arms to link the servo to the rudder, to turn them?

They look rather heavy and expensive. For much cheaper you can use this plastic tubing that is very flexible, its amazing what you can do with it. I have my servo behind the motors and just put a piece of this tubing connected to the servo arm and then to the rudder shaft, through a piece of wood to stabilize and it works great. But i guess you dont have to worry about your weight and how much room you have. if you want to know what it is i can find out.

ARH · Post by **ARH** » Wed Aug 31, 2005 5:01 pm

Hi Guys, We will continue with the hull, after fitting the rudders we now have to fit the 4 prop shafts, lining them up and marking out on the hull, we drill our first 4 holes in the hull, the 2 inboard shafts are lined up with the rudders,

The holes are then elongated so the shaft passes though the angle of the hull.

We have three fitted, you can see the tools I use, a round file and an exactor saw, you can also see the 14 inch long shaft you need for this type of model,

now the fourth

We now fit the bracing sections to the prop, and attach it to the hull, this prevents any vibration in the ends of the shafts when the screws are turning.

2 shots of the hull with its red primer and hull colour, as of 1916, Battle of Jutland.

enjoy, ARH

ARH · Post by **ARH** » Thu Sep 01, 2005 5:48 pm

Building the Master for the Turrets.

I decided to build the master out of Evergreen plasticard, having scaled up the drawings on my scanner, I marked and cut the first piece, being the base.

step 2, cut out the back and give it a little support.

step 3 put in a side wall, also give it support.

step 4 do the opposite side. You can see I am using Liquid Poly

step 5 put in brace's and begin to put on the top armour plates

step 6 the near finished object, with outlook sights and riveting, done with a hypo needle and water proof white glue.

enjoy, ARH

ARH · Post by **ARH** » Sun Sep 04, 2005 5:03 pm

MOULDS and CASTING.

I make my moulds from any thing that is at hand, Lego bricks, but this time it is 40 thou plastic card, cutting a base larger than the object to cast, cut 4 sides and glue them together and to the base, I usually strengthen them with gum paper all round,

Pour in your moulding compound, and leave it to set before taking the sides down.

Take out your casting and mix and pour in your cast material, leave to set.

Now we should have 1 master, 1 cast, 1 empty mould.

Refill the mould and leave to set, do this till you have enough of what you want.

Here we have the turrets, and the barrels in place, also the blast bags.

enjoy, ARH

ARH · Post by **ARH** » Mon Sep 12, 2005 4:37 pm

Continuing on from the moulding of the turrets, we can see the p/e ladders that fit up the sides and between the barrels.

You may notice a slight change to the bottom of the turrets, the bottom round section was sanded away, this will be included with the barbettes on the deck,

The colour change, this is the colour IRON DUKE was of 1916.

ARH · Post by **ARH** » Tue Sep 13, 2005 6:04 pm

Hi Guys, IRON DUKE had her 4 props fitted, these are 30mm, left and right handed from PROP SHOP in the UK.

As you can see there's not a straight section on the hull

WATERLINE.

To put on the waterline and anti fouling, I make sure the model is level and mark on a piece of card the waterline.

Then with another card I mark on the anti fouling line.

Then I mask the hull and paint between the two tapes.

Before it begins to dry take off the tape and you should be left with a reasonable black line.

Here's the hull with the sub deck, and one of the turrets just positioned to give some effect

enjoy ARH

ARH · Post by **ARH** » Wed Sep 14, 2005 5:47 pm

Start of Superstructure. First off I purchased 2 sheets of 1/64. ply 4ft x 1ft, this was cut to shape and fitted to both decks, this is the starting place for planking the decks, but it has to be cut and shaped around the access openings.

I also purchased 2 sheets of balsa wood 1mtr x 100mm x 2mm this will form part of the superstructure, I measured the height of the boat deck and cut my timbers and glued them in position around the opening, not forgetting to leave a packing piece in place so there will be room left to be able to remove this deck for access.

I then cut more balsa for struts to strengthen the deck.

Deck in position, taped down till glue has set, the balsa will have a covering over it later, either in thin ply or plastic card.

Bow view

Stern view, with three turrets placed in position for effect.

enjoy, ARH

ARH · Post by **ARH** » Thu Sep 15, 2005 5:03 pm

Hi Guys, Its been a busy day, building, painting, photographing, rescaling photo's to fit screen, down loading, typing headings for all the pictures, it seems you have given me a new lease of life in the build.

BARBETTES

To continue the superstructure we need to build the two forward barbettes, the second one is attached to the superstructure so both are marked on the deck for positioning, and holes drilled though to accept the plastic sleeves.

First cut the plastic disk and glue sleeve in position.

Then cut and glue sections of plastic card to the centre section, leaving them just short of the out side of the circle.

Make sure there's plenty of support.

Cut a rim to fit around the out side and glue in place with liquid poly. Weigh it down with some thing heavy and leave to set.

Place in position

Now we start again, only this time it is taller.

This is the piece that will fit round the outside of the barbette, you roll it up gradually in your hands, the heat of your hands helps it bend easily.

Leave to unroll and glue in position

Try in position, at the back you can see the drawings I am working from, they are 1/192 scale, the model is 1/96 scale.

Paint and fit in position, the paint looks a different shade, it will change when it has dried a while

enjoy ARH

ARH · Post by **ARH** » Fri Sep 16, 2005 5:48 pm

Continuation of the superstructure, not a lot done to day,

The balsa structure for the sides were cut and glued in position, note the paper model of IRON DUKE in the back ground.

The deck strengtheners glued in position, and the cardboard stack, which will be the base to the funnel.

Also the gun housing cut and glued in place.

In this shot you may notice the colour change to the barbettes now they are dry.

enjoy, ARH

ARH · Post by **ARH** » Sat Sep 17, 2005 5:35 pm

Continuation of the superstructure.

The first piece I cut today was a strengthening piece for under the deck, to lock everything together.

Section fitted, note the pins to give it strength.

The right way up, moved from opening.

Top , bottom and back of gun housing.

Second gun housing fitted to superstructure.

Deck cut and fitted.

The next level marked out and first sections glued in place.

The section complete.

Completed surround section with funnel in place for effect. All this balsa wood will have a covering over it for the finished paint work, also water tight doors and port holes.

enjoy ARH

ARH · Post by **ARH** » Mon Sep 19, 2005 5:20 pm

Well Guys, just a little bit more today, we continue on the superstructure, I have put in the floor for the main tower, strengthened it underneath because of the weight when everything is assembled,

Main tower

This is the first platform, just placed in position.

The second platform.

Third platform this one has a stepped section.

All the platforms will have angled strengthening sections built underneath.

Long shot of whole superstructure, this is only the starting point, there is a lot of covering up to do, portholes, door, ladders, handrails, dodgers, lights, and paintwork.

enjoy, ARH

Vlad · Post by **Vlad** » Tue Sep 20, 2005 10:44 am

I can see jellicoe walking up to take his place on his magnificent flagship, good job

ARH · Post by **ARH** » Tue Sep 20, 2005 5:02 pm

I had an hour and a half of building to day, I have now started to cover the superstructure with LITHO PLATE, I spoke about this material before, it is a soft aluminium plate that is waste product in the printing industry, it very easy to cut and bend, I glue it on with Evostic contact adhesive.

As you can see, you can get sharp edges and sweeping curves very easily, the piece from the sanding block to the gun implacement is all in one piece.

enjoy, ARH